76' brakes

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76' brakes

Postby h-bot » Thu Feb 20, 2003 5:58 am

From: buddyleejjc2_REMOVE_807307_THIS_@yahoo.com

I need the part number for a 76' master cylinder and am wondering if
the rear cylinders are the same for a 75' and a 76'. Also, does
anyone know of an out of car test to determine if a master cylinder
is functionable or not. Please reply.
Thank You,
John J. Cowall




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76' brakes

Postby h-bot » Fri Feb 21, 2003 3:32 am

From: vegaman76_REMOVE_563147_THIS_@yahoo.com

--- In <a href="/group/cosworthvegas/post?protectID=219233066105193209050199029077192253163098100009128121188190230091025019053061151110147">cosworthvegas@yahoogroups.com</a>, buddyleejjc2 <<a href="/group/cosworthvegas/post?protectID=091233212180056219138097203245129208071">no_reply@y...</a>>
wrote:
> I need the part number for a 76' master cylinder and am wondering
if
> the rear cylinders are the same for a 75' and a 76'. Also, does
> anyone know of an out of car test to determine if a master cylinder
> is functionable or not. Please reply.
> Thank You,
> John J. Cowall

Hi John the cylinders are not the same on a 74-75 they are bigger
then the 76's are I pulled a rear clyinder out of a 74 hatchback in a
salvage yard and it was bigger so I went to a 76 wagon and it was
the same so it looks to me that the 74-75 had a bigger rear brake
clylinder then the 76 -77 did BYU where do you live John
]
Travis




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76' brakes

Postby h-bot » Fri Feb 21, 2003 4:22 am

From: doctorduke_REMOVE_613678_THIS_@yahoo.com

You can buy new or rebuilt hydraulic components from any of the major
aftermarket brake component suppliers - Bendix, Wagner, EIS,
Raybestos.

The only differece between the CV and Vega brake system for '75 is the
CV's semi-metallic front pads. In '76 both the CV and 140 Vegas
received metallic front pads so the '76 CV brake system is identical
to the base Vega brake system.

Duke




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76' brakes

Postby h-bot » Sat Feb 22, 2003 12:21 pm

From: buddyleejjc2_REMOVE_502186_THIS_@yahoo.com




I live near Detroit, in Michigan. I have 76' brake set up on my 75'
CV. However, I do believe my master cylinder is not functioning
properly. I.E., the peddle goes all the way to the floor every now
and then. It is quite disconcerting when this happens while driving.
I need the master cylinder part number for the 76' brake set up. I
have about six master cylinders lying around, but am not sure which
is the 76 number. (I want to make sure that I replace the bad one
with a good one, and the right one.)
Thanks,

John J. Cowall




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76' brakes

Postby h-bot » Sun Feb 23, 2003 6:26 am

From: doctorduke_REMOVE_652145_THIS_@yahoo.com

A master cylinder that's been "laying around" for God knows how long
is probably as corroded and unsafe as what's on your car.

Go to a parts store and order a master cylinder for a '76 Vega, or get
a kit and rebuild it. Don't use junk parts on a brake system.

Duke




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76' brakes

Postby h-bot » Sun Feb 23, 2003 9:41 am

From: markrock_REMOVE_451666_THIS_@yahoo.com

John:

Duke's right. A master cylinder that has been lying around for years
is undoubtedly junk, but he failed to explain why. There are, it
seems, two reasons. First, it has likely seen years of service
and has worn and/or become corroded inside during that time. Second,
and more importantly for a unit that has been off the car and not
sealed, it has undoubtedly suffered accelerated corrosion of the
piston bore since being removed.

"Why would that be?" you ask. Easy. Brake fluid is hygroscopic, it
attracts moisture. If the master cylinder has been lying around with
the lines removed, or even with the short lines still attached, but
with the openings uncapped, then the moisture in the air, which moves
in and out a tiny amount with changes in temperature and in
barometric pressure, moves into the area where a film of brake fluid
can be found. The moisture quickly contaminates that film, and the
contamination migrates along the film deep inside the caliper where
it ultimately reaches the piston bore and begins to corrode it.

Duke offers the option of rebuilding the master cylinder. Here he
and I part company. Cheap as I am, I would not rebuild a master
cylinder, or even a wheel cylinder. In my younger days I rebuilt
both, and can recall repeatedly rebuilding Corvette calipers, ones
that are notorious for corroding and for which the "fix" is to
install stainless steel sleeves. My experiences told me that the
results were short lived, and not worth the savings over purchasing
new equipment. Since then I have learned that I might have obtained
longer-lasting results with some specialized hones from Flex-Hone to
put a much finer finish on the bores, but I didn't have that tool
then, and it would not be cost effective today.

Take Duke's first suggestion. Buy a new unit. Or one that has been
professionally rebuilt. Take all your cores with you to the
parts store, order a new unit, and use it to pick which core to turn
in. Just remember that in 76 there was a running change in the
design of the unit, so the reservoir on what you have might not match
the reservoir on what you will get--i.e. they will look very
different but will be functionally identical.

Mark




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