Engine issues

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Engine issues

Postby h-bot » Mon Mar 11, 2002 5:40 pm

From: fastboatman_REMOVE_288405_THIS_@yahoo.com


Thanks to everyone for their suggestions. I have
since discovered the issue and it is simple, but not
easy to fix.

On Cylnders 1 & 3, the headers are
so close to the plugs that they are melting the plug
boot. I had isulators from Jegs on them but they still
melted through. I am using Bosch premium wires, and have
never had this issue before. The fix is backyard rigged
for now but seems to have fixed things up a bit. I
mixed up some fiberglass fibers with Hi-temp RTV, I
also removed a large amount of the black isulation
from each boot and then applied the glass/RTV to the
boot. I then placed a thin sheet of aluminum foil(heat
shield I hope) around the boot. After this hardered a
bit, I applied another coat of RTV and glass around
the foil to completly cover it and slipped them onto
the plugs. I ran the engine to get it up to temp and
then let it sit overnight.

The result is that
I have a 'shaped' boot that seems to be a bit more
tolerant of heat. If it fails I will pass on the bad
news.

If anyone else has a better solution, please pass it
on!

Jeff in Dallas


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Engine issues

Postby h-bot » Mon Mar 11, 2002 8:32 pm

From: pfjk36322_REMOVE_791053_THIS_@yahoo.com


Jeff,sounds effective,yet,it probably ain't pretty.You are on to something.
Frank


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Engine issues

Postby h-bot » Tue Mar 12, 2002 12:52 pm

From: monza355_REMOVE_543070_THIS_@yahoo.com


Jeff,
I have the same problem. What I have
done is bought about 2 foot of header wrap and wrapped
the two tubes. I have not put the header back on yet,
so I don't know if it is successful or not. I will
report back what happens.

I am surprised the Jegs
insulators melted. They are supposed to be high heat rated.
There are other boot covers, such as the 3M Space Age
Boot Protectors, but they are a little expensive.
However, if they work, it is worth
it.

Albert
Monza355


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Engine issues

Postby h-bot » Tue Mar 12, 2002 1:10 pm

From: monza355_REMOVE_280338_THIS_@yahoo.com


Sorry. I got it backwards. 3M makes the Nextel
boot protectors, and Taylor Vertex makes the Space Age
boot protectors. Either one of these would probably do
well. The space age ones are supposed to withstand
1200°.

Albert


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Engine issues

Postby h-bot » Wed Mar 13, 2002 3:49 pm

From: fastboatman_REMOVE_176637_THIS_@yahoo.com


>>I am surprised the Jegs insulators
melted. They are supposed to be high heat
rated.<<

Well, the boot protectors did not melt, in fact they
looked just fine so I never thought my problem was the
wires. After replacing everything but the spark module,
I started back to basics. when I went to pull the
plugs out to check them, the boot practically turned to
dust. I think the protectors work but under some
conditions(headers way to close), they act more like little ovens
and keep the heat in.

Let me know how the
tape wrap goes, I think that is a better solution
anyway.

Cheers!
Jef in dallas


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Engine issues

Postby h-bot » Thu Mar 14, 2002 3:02 pm

From: fastboatman_REMOVE_454533_THIS_@yahoo.com


Here is an update on the plug boot melting
issues:

The rigged boot protectors faired no better on plug
#3. Number 1 is holding up(partly due to a re-route
of the wire too).

Here is my next thought. I
am planning to dimple the header so that there is at
least 1/4" clearance from the boot. Where I have to
dimple this is about 5" of header length from the #1
cylinder. The question is, will this be to close and how
far can I dimple it before it has a negative effect?
Any thoughts are welcome.


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Engine issues

Postby h-bot » Thu Mar 14, 2002 4:53 pm

From: monzapla_REMOVE_389238_THIS_@yahoo.com


Have you considerd different spark plugs? Some plugs are shorter (or longer) that others.
Perry


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Engine issues

Postby h-bot » Thu Mar 14, 2002 10:49 pm

From: pfjk36322_REMOVE_142721_THIS_@yahoo.com


A recant article in a car mag stated that
"lawn-mower" shortie plugs can be had for header issues.It's a
shame that some of us have to cobble-up 2 or 4 wire
sets to get something that works.I have also lamented
that the header builders can't seem to engineer a set
that fits the engine/chasis combo and plug
placement.
This is why I like ported cast iron exhaust
manifolds.$200+ for 30 HP is bad math.
Not to mention they
don't fit,no ground clearance,hook-up
problems,corroision,noise&reverberation,heat in the interior(melted carpet).Why can't someone
build a set of headers(even shorties) that fix all of
the above problems?
I don't get these late-model
F-body header manufacturers that charge $500 to 800 for
headers,even if they are coated,and then another $300 to 500
for a set of bent pipes,and mufflers to hook-up for
what.
The same can be said for the Granitelli air
sensor.$350 for 15 real wheel HP?
Gee,now I know why I
want to "engineer" an old fashioned carbed
motor,mixing real life cost parts and 'Smokey Yunick'
technology.
Frank


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Engine issues

Postby h-bot » Fri Mar 15, 2002 12:46 am

From: cliffhangeriii_REMOVE_933390_THIS_@yahoo.com


Have you ever tryed Hooker 2135's, the only
complaint I have about them is when you have to change the
starter which I haven't yet. But they have been on for
over 40,000 miles and haven't lost one yet{knock on
wood}. Plug changes are easier than with manifolds on
driverside. I just pull the sliptube and it's all right
there. With manifolds it sucked changing them but I also
had power steering and brakes, once I went manual it
was even easier with the 2135s. Ground clearance is
good 2 1/2 collecters. I dont melt plug wires, their
V8 monza application junk Accels{they were cheap}.
The damn thing are expensive, $369 last time I
checked at Summit, I got lucky I got my set of my buddy,
when he went 2.02 1.60 valves he went with the larger
2129 Hookers, and I picked these up for $80 bucks they
have 3 seasons of track only use on them. I hear alot
about Sandersons but there shorties and if your going
to use headers go full lenth in my opinion. I know
guys who ran aftermarket shorties on there 5slow
Mustangs{bad word} then went full lenth headers and went 3
.10s quicker. But when my headers go bad I will go
back to manifolds but i think they will last a long
time cause I put Hookers on my wifes Z 12 years ago
and about 80,000 miles and there still good. Just my
.02

Cliff


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Engine issues

Postby h-bot » Fri Mar 15, 2002 12:59 am

From: eddievetter4u_REMOVE_314499_THIS_@yahoo.com


Cliff,
I am wondering if you have compared
the 2129 differences to the 2135 headers.
I am
wondering where the problems would arise.........
I
have 2129's on my car and don't have any problems,
period.
Just curious as I may run into a set of 2135's
and would like to know what the difference
is...........


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Engine issues

Postby h-bot » Fri Mar 15, 2002 1:06 am

From: cliffhangeriii_REMOVE_649424_THIS_@yahoo.com


The 2135s have a 1 1/2" primary tube and 2 1/2" collecter. 2129s have 1 3/4 primary and 3" collecter. The header change gave my buddy 2 .10s to the good.


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Engine issues

Postby h-bot » Fri Mar 15, 2002 1:13 am

From: cliffhangeriii_REMOVE_935014_THIS_@yahoo.com


Another thing I should add is you use stock
mounts with the 2135s. Speaking of that I drove my Monza
into PA. last night to visit a couple buddies since it
was so damn nice out {about 60 miles one way} and my
one buddy used to have a Monza gave me his spare 2
sets of V8 mounts, and today a member came up with a
possible fix for them WAY COOL.


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Engine issues

Postby h-bot » Fri Mar 15, 2002 1:24 am

From: cliffhangeriii_REMOVE_470559_THIS_@yahoo.com


Did that help? Was it better than Star Trek?


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Engine issues

Postby h-bot » Fri Mar 15, 2002 9:30 am

From: fyrftr50_REMOVE_685932_THIS_@yahoo.com


Cliff
Did you do anything to protect/extend the life of your headers? Certain paint, covering, wrap that may have helped your headers last as long as they have?
Bryan


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Engine issues

Postby h-bot » Fri Mar 15, 2002 9:45 am

From: eddievetter4u_REMOVE_482479_THIS_@yahoo.com


Yes,...... thank you.


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