Engine placement

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Engine placement

Postby NixVegaGT » Mon Feb 05, 2007 12:56 pm

Mostly fishing for opinions here.
I was watching an episode of Muscle Car yesterday. The one about building a racing chassis for the '65 mustang they have. He's mounting the engine back a few inches from the stock location.

I'm considering doing something similar. Right now the right bank of the 215 is even with the heater box. I'll get pic if I can. The engine is out of it right now but I might have a pic from a while ago.

Anyway I think I could move it back 2-3 in. but I'd need to take a bite out of the heater box. I'm in MN. I'm not planning on winter driving but it can get cold in the transition seasons... What do you guys think...?
- Nic '73 Vega GT "DogBoxx" Batwing LS1
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Postby cjbiagi » Mon Feb 05, 2007 2:14 pm

I guess it depends on how many other mods you would have to do. Frame mounts,engine mounts, trans mount, driveshaft length, shifter/console exhaust, etc. It could be one of those "one thing leads to another" type of deals. I assume the 215 is already pretty light so I am not sure how much you would gain for a street car.
Clyde.........75 Monza 2+2
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Postby NixVegaGT » Mon Feb 05, 2007 3:03 pm

Good point on the engine weight... It is only 50 lbs. heavier than the 2300 but it is 50 lbs... The only concern for me at this point would be the Transmission mount in terms of moving stuff. I was going to have to shorten the driveshaft already because I upgraded to the 7.5" rear and a Hurst shifter. Thanks for the input. Good things to consider.
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Postby gerbsinmd » Mon Feb 05, 2007 5:30 pm

I wouldn't worry too much about 50lbs. If you moved the battery to the back wouldn't that equalize the wait difference?

Darrel
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Postby cjbiagi » Mon Feb 05, 2007 8:13 pm

I think you need to consider everything that would have to moved or modified and balance it against any gains. It still way lighter than a iron headed smallblock, and there are a lot of those around. To me, I don't see that's it's worth the bother, but what do I know?
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Postby bugdewde » Mon Feb 05, 2007 11:00 pm

Hey Nic,
I don't have mine currently on...... but I installed a '75 Monza A/C HVAC unit.

As you can see from the pic........ it doesn't have a box where the heater hoses come through the firewall. It takes a little trimming of the firewall and the A/C firewall plate from an A/C car for it to mount up..... easily done.... just bolts in.

Mine already had the A/C firewall plate and the firewall was already cut out. I got the HVAC box out of a wrecking yard. Also used the Vacuum canister to actuate the diverter doors...... but you could use cables. I hope to have A/C one day(hopefully all GM H-body parts).
Image

Image

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Postby bugdewde » Mon Feb 05, 2007 11:38 pm

Here's a shot I found of the engine installed with the '75 Monza HVAC unit. It's dark but you can see the heater hoses......

Oh, this set up will use a different heater core.....The inlet/outlet tubes are bent differently to fit with a "V"-configured engine like in the Monza. I bought my core from Autozone or something similar. Cheap.

As for moving the engine back...... I think it would be a great thing to even further the handling capabilities...... see the extra clearance I have? You can see the bellhousing plainly.
The tranny tunnel would need some major massaging, though. Maybe even redone with access panels........ the bellhousing bolts on the driver's side is a PITA to reach up top.
Also, exhaust clearance on the driver's side is tight if you use stock manifolds. We ended up having to make a ....... 90..... to get the downpipe to clear the firewall/reinforcement because the stock 215 manifold exits to the rear at an angle.
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Postby NixVegaGT » Tue Feb 06, 2007 9:53 am

Thanks for weighing in guys. I got exactly what I wanted. Some opposing points of view. I'll look at the Trans crossmember. I think it's stock with no modification so the new engine should be about the right location. It is a bit longer. I've got some calculating to do:

Front:
I'm going no front bumper. -8lbs.
Battery to the back. Behind the right rear. -40lbs.??
Switching to Appleton Rack. -4lbs.
1 1/4" swaybar +10lbs.
Rover Stroker. +55lbs.
Tubular crossmember. +6lbs.
Chassis brace. +6lbs.

Unsprung:
S10 spindle swap (S10 BJs) +11lbs.
15" torque thrust Ds. Actually lost weight! -2lbs.

Rear:
Battery. (Optima Red Top) +33lbs.
Boxed steel trailing arms. (Unsprung?) +2lbs.
Panard Bar braketing and support. +2lbs.

Unsprung:
Swapped 7.5" for 6.5". I have no idea what the difference in weight is here. It definately feels a great deal heavier. +30lbs??
1" sway bar. +10lbs.

If I remember right the balance on the stock Vega GT was pretty close to 50/50. Anybody know for certain? So that comes out to a grand total of: +25lbs. on the front. +35lbs. (or a couple more) on the rear. A 15lb. difference...

HOLY CRAP! You could be right, Clyde. I could come out ahead. I guess the battery relocation makes a big difference. Based on my calculations for total added weight on the vehicle including unsprung is:

Frame rails: 60lbs.
Chassis foam: 5-8lbs.
Tubular crossmember: 6lbs.
Tubular front chassis brace: 6lbs.
S10 front spindle/brake: 9lbs.
Engine swap: 55lbs.
Optima battery: -5lbs.
Front bumper: -8lbs.
1 1/4" swaybar: 10lbs.
Appleton Rack swap: -4lbs.
No rear seat/ interior removal: 10lbs.???
7.5" swap: 35lbs.
Torque arm: 7lbs.
Panard bar/brakets/braces: 7lbs.
Boxed steel trailing arms: 2lbs.

Total: 178lbs.


Driver Girth: 185lbs.
Grand Total: 363lbs. I DOUBLED IT!! LOL.

Thanks guys.
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Postby gerbsinmd » Tue Feb 06, 2007 10:11 am

If you are really serious about the balance, you need to find someone that has separate scales for each wheels. I've read that this can make a big difference.

I have no practical experience with them but I remember a thread on it on the other board a while back.

Darrel
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2017 Cruze Hatchback
2008 Town & Country - Family transport
2018 Cruze - 35mpg - avg, 49.7mpg - best so far.
2011 Impala - commuter
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Postby NixVegaGT » Tue Feb 06, 2007 10:48 am

http://www.rebcoperformance.com/catalog ... =3&catid=1

Cool! WOW a bit expensive though... I gotta think about it.
- Nic '73 Vega GT "DogBoxx" Batwing LS1
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Postby gerbsinmd » Tue Feb 06, 2007 11:04 am

Yikes!!!!!

Maybe make friends with someone at a local quarry, or feedmill/ farm store????

You might be able to get them to scale it at least front half and back half for a bunch less than that.

Darrel
1999 Saturn SL2
2017 Cruze Hatchback
2008 Town & Country - Family transport
2018 Cruze - 35mpg - avg, 49.7mpg - best so far.
2011 Impala - commuter
RIP-2002 Saturn SL2 Commuter car - burned a valve @ 234k miles

1977 Monza Mirage being Restified!!
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Postby NixVegaGT » Tue Feb 06, 2007 11:07 am

- Nic '73 Vega GT "DogBoxx" Batwing LS1
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Postby Kenova » Tue Feb 06, 2007 6:29 pm

Check with some of the stock car supply houses. Corner weights are a big deal for these guys (stock car racers) and a lot of them have their own scale sets. Some sets are very reasonably priced for home shop use.
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Postby NixVegaGT » Wed Feb 07, 2007 9:44 am

Good idea, Ken. I know just the place!
- Nic '73 Vega GT "DogBoxx" Batwing LS1
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