Need ideas,75 Vega -600 hp-1/8 mile strip

[BigTruckDriver]

What will it take to do it safely and effectively? Beside the motor I am talking suspension chassis mods. I am planning on 10" rear tires.Thanks

[ColinOpseth]

You need to talk to SWT Racing.

[Sirshredalot]

Just my.02 here.

Gonna need as much frame as you can squeeze under it...to keep it kosher anyway.
Id use 2x3 steel square tube with two crossmembers.

Go past the tranny mount bosses and try to tie it into the front of the car as much as possible. Maybe double layer or reinforce the firewall.

At least an 8pt cage...preferably a 10 with a dash bar tied into the firewall.
A 12pt makes things a squeeze.

Its easy and cheap enough to make tubular rear control arms with heim joints....use at least 3/4" if not 1" joints.

Id keep the torque arm but make a tube steel one with reinforcment bars and gussets at all inside corners.

Pass up the chromemoly stuff cause its welded different and heavier.

Pitch the stock rear and go for a ford 9" or other similar alternatives.

Coil over shocks free up some room for tires but a 10" wide tires shouldnt be that hard on a later model car.

God bless
-Shred

[Fasterthansome]

I did a 10 point cage no dash bar.
Did 1 5/8" rd tube sub frame connectors and attached them at a couple points under the floor. I made a moly torque arm and moly lower control arms. Moly is lighter because you can go to a thinner wall thickness than mild steel and have the same strength. 900+ at the crank and it seems to work good.

[Sirshredalot]

Hey fasterthansome,

I have heard of guys saying that because the chromemoly is harder it is more prone to stress cracks right after welds. Ever heard of this?

Ive never personally dealt with Chromemoly beforeso i have no clue.
Didnt mean to mis inform anyone.

God bless
-Shred

[Fasterthansome]

http://www.lincolnelectric.com/knowledg ... e-moly.asp

[DEMON Precision]

go to yellowbullet.com , there is some very large threads about moly tubing .

how,s things goin Frank ?? my shop is getting close to move instage , got a tig and plasma ready to be fired up , this winter should be fun .

mikey

[Fasterthansome]

go to yellowbullet.com , there is some very large threads about moly tubing .

how,s things goin Frank ?? my shop is getting close to move instage , got a tig and plasma ready to be fired up , this winter should be fun .

mikey

NICE! Cant wait to see what rolls out of that shop.

[Fasterthansome]

go to yellowbullet.com , there is some very large threads about moly tubing .

how,s things goin Frank ?? my shop is getting close to move instage , got a tig and plasma ready to be fired up , this winter should be fun .

mikey

NICE! Cant wait to see what rolls out of that shop.

[Stivan]

If your intentions are Drag Only. . . .you need to keep the chasis as ridged as possible. Just like fasternsum said. I myself prefer to insert a piece of 2x3 11 ga. rect. tubing "inside" the main unibody frame under the door jams, from the front offset under the firewall, to the rear kick up.. .This gives you a very strong platform to work from. From this you can mount your cage, cross members, etc.

Remember, if your frame is "flexing", you're robbing HP to the ground. As far as rear-end strength is concerned, a narrowed 9" is probably the most practical conversion. After all, every one's got 2 or 3 of them behind their shop, for parts don't they?<grin>

I recently did a Strange conversion for a Monza 10 Bolt, with C-clip eliminators, 33 splined axles, spool, and Richmond Gears. Granted, it was very "pricey". . . .but it is suppose to hold up to 1500 hp, and after building it, I have no doubt that it "will" do it.

I could go on for "all night", and you're probably getting tired of reading this, so I'll get out of here. . . .

Just passing on some info that might do you some good.

[BigTruckDriver]

"I myself prefer to insert a piece of 2x3 11 ga. rect. tubing "inside" the main unibody frame under the door jams, from the front offset under the firewall, to the rear kick up.. ."

Where can I find a pick of what you did ? It sounds like a good idea.




No Stivan and others, I appreciate the insight. this is my fist vega and drag car build and can use all the help, thanks. I have the tools just not the know how or what I mean is what works best in a vega. There are guys here that have had 2- 3 vegas and there is something to learn from them . I am sure you guys are like me and with your first ,second , third , and so on there is all ways some thing you would do different. I want to get on the track as soon as possible to have fun and learn but want to build something that I can add to. I dont want to waste my time and money with something that will limit me and end up having to tear out to build better, but I dont want to do a all out full tube chassis car at this time either. trying to find something in the middle that will be top notch performance wise and SAFE. Anyways thanks for the help.

So far I am thinking a 12 point cage, ladder bars, sub connectors, and 10 slicks. I know the 12 point may be a little overkill but for the rigidness and safety factor I think it may be worth it, to me anyways. What you think?

[BigTruckDriver]

This is what I am after.... The info also says that 2" dropped spindles and 3.5 wide tires were used up front. I have been asking and searching for about a month now to see how this combo would work.


http://www.streetrodbuilder.com/ME2/Aud ... 20F6540FE8

[bill1978v8]

here is a pic of my car with 4.5" tires and 2" drop spindles. granted it's a monza but it sits nice.