Roll Bar/Cage Kit?

[Stivan]

What am I missing here why is the price cheap? http://www.go-fast-parts.com/5709255.html

Who makes a 1 5/8" x .118 cage? Most I see are .134

I don't know of anyone who offers a bona fide .118 cage. . . . I "do" know, that 15/8" x 11 gauge is .120. . . .if you're buying tubing to make one. . .. . . I built a cage once, out of 11 gauge, and when I had it certified, it pinged out to .114 on the bends.

Had to talk my a-- off to get it to pass. FYI. . .

Later Dude

[Stivan]

What am I missing here why is the price cheap? http://www.go-fast-parts.com/5709255.html

Who makes a 1 5/8" x .118 cage? Most I see are .134

I don't know of anyone who offers a bona fide .118 cage. . . . I "do" know, that 15/8" x 11 gauge is .120. . . .if you're buying tubing to make one. . .. . . I built a cage once, out of 11 gauge, and when I had it certified, it pinged out to .114 on the bends.

Had to talk my a-- off to get it to pass. FYI. . .

Later Dude

[NixVegaGT]

What am I missing here why is the price cheap? http://www.go-fast-parts.com/5709255.html

OK I checked the shipping charges. $17 and they were ready to take my card info! WOW! That's a really good deal for a full cage. I'm half tempted to buy it and store it.

[Badsunbird]

Well Guys,

I guess we're going to find out "what the deal is" with "goFastparts.com", I ordered my 8 point roll bar/cage from them today. And as mentioned before, the shipping charges were only $17.49 , not too bad at all I'd say. Now lets just see if they honor what they put in print. It almost seems too good to be true.
So in short, we'll see when it gets here. I will be sure to post a pic. or two so that everyone can see exactly what they ship and what it looks like!
Thank You everyone for ALL your input, it has been Greatly Appreciated! You gave me just what I was looking for!


Thanks!

[spyder_xlch]

Spohn has roll cages listed for H-body too.

[Badsunbird]

Too Late.... I was pretty sure there was some sort of catch or hidden fees some place, one phone call later from them and a $69.00 oversized handling charge. So now we are up to $274.00 and some change, the final cost, to my door, is $277.97! Yea well, it's only money isn't it?
I'd say that no matter what, you can expect to pay somewhere between $250.00 to $300.00 for an 8 point roll bar. The price for one seems to be pretty consistent between all the manufacturers for a "mild steel" tube roll bar.
I guess if I don't like what I get, I can always sell it on ebay !!!

[NHRA Stk Starfire]

Spohn has roll cages listed for H-body too.

I was going to mention that also. I figure a company that is getting into the h-bodies should get our business. I am planning on shopping there when I am ready for the roll bar and rear suspension components. The roll bar appears to be from S&W from the installation instructions.

[Badsunbird]

As I mentioned before in my last post, Here are some pics of the kit that they sent me.
I'll give it to them for their shipping, had it here in three days, Very Impressive ! I ordered it on Tuesday afternoon and it was on my porch at 9:00 am Friday morning !
Their customer service leaves a little to be desired though ! I have tried contacting them atleast six times trying to get a "little" satisfaction, but no luck. There were no 6X6 1/8" mounting plates and no instructions in the kit as described in the ad.
Although minor details, but important pieces all the same.
Anyway, here are a few pics of what I received,

[goquick]

Personally, anything less than a 10 point full cage is allowing too much body flex if you make any power. You really need the 2 extras going up front.

[Badsunbird]

I think that this 8 pt. is a good place to start, I am also planning on a few additions to it as well that are going to be beneficial structurally and aesthetically, I can always come back later and add the front hoop & bars, you have to remember that this car is going to remain streetable, it is not a full blown all-out race car.
I have went through alot of extra work in doing reinforcement welding in numerous locations, I also went through the trouble of welding the seam along the inside of the rocker panel when I replaced the entire floor pan for added strength in making it a little more rigid in the process. Hopefully this will be enough to hold my almost 500 hp motor, if not, I'll be adding the bars as I mentioned before.
I mean besides the added safety factor from having the extra 2 pts. & bars, does it really add all that much to the car structurally without adding the 2 front tubes to the front of the frame? If you go through the extra work of putting in a 10 pt. & the cross bar as you should, then it is kind of senseless not to add the other 2 front tubes isn't it?

[goquick]

If you are making very much tq at all, it really is a noticible difference to have the other bars and especially the crossbar. The crossbar helps take the engines tq. to plant the right rear for better traction control. It also stiffens up the cowl area of the car so the danerous "twisting" around the windshield of the body is eliminated or seriously lessened. Ever seen a car that the windshield starts leaking when an engine raced or a new more powerful engine combo has been put into the car? That body is twistng. The location of the crossbar is important also. I see alot of guys don't want their car cut up, so they add a cage with the crossbar in the perfect location for getting hurt (if an inident did unfornately happen)and cracking kneecaps everytime you get in or out of the car. But that is too far back from the engine to be of much use. If you run the cage downbars even with the A pillars, the holes in the dash is minimal. Plus done with enough forward shape, the crossbar is up out of the way and out of sight under/behind the dash. The best I've seen is a 72 Vega a friend built and his bars were tightenough to the A pillers and windshield that his notches in the dash were just the very corners. Also add the lower "doorsill" bars. This also helps stiffen the middle of the car where it is weakest. Sorry I don't have a better door bar picture of mine. but here it is;

[goquick]

Opps, says file too big for the picture. My mainthing about when someone is building a car is that you can build it however you want, but twhen the time comes to resale the ride, the very little extra effort on bar placement and cage arrangemet makes it a buyers delight (which raises the value for you too) or buyers nighmare which you will have a very hard time selling. One other point too; When you go to a track and they see you took a little extra time planning a good cage arrangement, the techs always will be easier on you. I had a cage put in a car one time and showed up with the cage, a very well laid out one with just the rockersill/doorsill bar added and the front downbars going down thru the dash with the crossbar behind the dash and got a best engineered award at Gateway. The tech inspectors at that time didn't even look to see if I had a driveshaft loop. They seen the extra attention to the cage and flat told me nice job, your trying to be safe have fun. Never lifted the hood either.

[Badsunbird]

goquick

You have made some very good points and I can see the reasoning behind it and wish that I could view your pics. to see how your is constructed.

[goquick]

Email me at;

bgm890@sbcglobal.net

and I'll send you a couple pictures. Title it as from
Badsunbird Needs Pics
so when i go thru to clearout junk mail I don't delete it.

[76Nomad]

Would you mind sending those pics to me also? I would like to see them also as I plan on installing a cage. I could also downsize them and post them.

cobalt_supercharged@hotmail.com

Thanks