Currie 9" and 3-link suspension

[cosvega76]

Thanks for the link, Dean. That looks like an alternative. I would have to redrill the backing plate, anyway, since my axle uses a Small GM bolt pattern instead of the Ford. Mine uses the Ford bearing, though.

I looked at an Explorer we had in the shop one time. The OE brake cable really snakes around to make it on the inside of the leaf spring, although I think it would be better if it was on the bottom instead of the top. Does it look possible to swap side-to-side so the actuator could be on the bottom? I think the caliper could be inverted to keep the bleeder on the top.

Chuck

[GizmoN]

The 9" in my Skyhawk is 54.75" wide. It cost $2,8k delivered in 2002. It seems like I just finished it!

You cannot flip the brakes from 1 side to another without hitting the shock mount... a lot. Reworked shock mounts might have corrected the issue, but I needed to fix some "frame"/brace rust anyway. I also didn't care about the rear seat area. Long term plan was to put a storage compartment there and hide the cables.

Some pics for reference.

[GizmoN]

More pics. Hope they help.

[stage169]

Dean I think Chuck suggested putting the right brake bracket on the left side...... Looking at the pair I have it looks like it would work. I think the only difference would be the e brake cable at the bottom. The caliper should mount just fine for each side even though the brackets are swapped. So the only difference from the way you have yours is the e brake cable will be at the bottom.

By the looks of it I'll need to cut a bunch just to get the rear calipers in. Wow I'm not sure if I'll tackle that.

Nice Fab work btw!

Brian

[Sirshredalot]

Is that a Jerico tranny?

Thats a strange looking pan and output shaft for an automatic?.....?

God bless
-Shred

[GizmoN]

Brian, it's been 3+ years since I put the rear in the car, but I did look into swapping sides. I don't recall a way to separate and clock unit so the e-brake is at the bottom and the caliper remains at the top to clear the shock mount. Too late now anyway. Someone else will have to check an Explorer assembly for that one.

Shred, that's a Gear Vendors overdrive on the back of a TH350. Awesome unit.

[Monzsta]

Sorry I'm late to the thread. Let me see if I can find a pic of my cable routing for you.

[stage169]

Dean I understand, you don't need to change anything. I have Explorer rear disc brackets that I pulled from a yard last year. I thought I might piece the brakes together and save some money. First thing I found out is Ford does not sell the dust shield seperately anymore. So my JYD Explorer rear disc brackets have bent up shields . The kit from Currie is a deal. Anyway I put the right bracket up to my left axle and it looked good. Maybe I can put it on this evening and take a pic. Brian

[cosvega76]

Thanks, Dean, those photos are great! Very helpful.

Chuck

[stage169]

Man its cold out! I wish I could do some real work instead of bench building all winter long. I would be happy just to heat my barn to 40degs.

I can't tell for sure. Its close on mine and does clock the caliper mount down lower. I realize our rearends won't be exactly the same so what might work on one won't on the other. Moser didn't make mine exactly as I asked. From outer housing end to outer housing end I gave them a dimension of over 49 3/4". Same measurement on my rear and its around 49.25". Inner rear wheel well to the other on my car is 43.5". Doesn't leave much room. I need a caliper to see how much it goes toward the middle of the car. If its less than 3" from the inside of the bracket for one side it might work. Warmer weather I'll find out I guess. I do want 4whl disc brakes. Brian

[Monzsta]

[Monzsta]

Those pics are a mess. I don't think I took any when I got the brakes and cables in there. I can go get some if you have any questions or need any measurements.

[stage169]

Monzsta do you know the width from housing end to housing end? From your pic's it doesn't look like you cut anything out on the inner rear wheel well. Looks like to me you switched brake brackets from one side to the other. E brake cable is on the bottom. Brian

[GizmoN]

There must be a smaller dimension from the shock mount to the flange on my unit. If you look at my pic 110_1070_1.JPG on the right side you can see that there is no way to shift the caliper down and not severely interfere with the shock mount. The mount clears, but the back of the caliper hits and required too much material removal for the shock mount to work. Something to watch out for I guess. I glad it works out for others, because it looks like no wheel well mods or special e-brake routing are necessary.

Since I had to repair rust, it didn't matter...

[Monzsta]

It came in a box from Currie, and there wasn't a left or right that I could discern. So I just followed the stock routing of the factory cables. I'll measure the housing tonight.