Suspension Geometry for tube chassis?

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Re: Suspension Geometry for tube chassis?

Postby Sirshredalot » Sun Nov 23, 2008 1:06 pm

I dont know why that first picture showed up three times....I only posted it once

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Re: Suspension Geometry for tube chassis?

Postby Astre-mutt » Sun Nov 23, 2008 2:53 pm

That's a cool old drag car. Looks like one I saw on ebay not to long ago. With 22" wide frame rails you could mount some serous tires.
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Re: Suspension Geometry for tube chassis?

Postby NixVegaGT » Tue Nov 25, 2008 9:10 am

Tricky, Scott! That's good strategy cutting the beam with two tires. Interesting. WOW I'm not used to seeing that much room in front of an engine! LOL
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Re: Suspension Geometry for tube chassis?

Postby spyder_xlch » Wed Nov 26, 2008 12:16 am

I agree with Nic, that engine sits back a ton. I like it. No worry about radiator/fan clearence.
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Re: Suspension Geometry for tube chassis?

Postby Sirshredalot » Wed Nov 26, 2008 11:21 am

Yes...the engine is set back pretty far, I welded the mounts there and put it there, but I kinda shot myself in the foot doing so...now I will need custom headers unless I can find some that will fit it...Ive got three set of headers around the garage for tight chassis and theyll all fit the drivers side, but none will fit the passenger side.

IM thinking of some of the IMCA street stock headers, or maybe just building some zoomies.

The engine sets closer to the passenger side by about a half inch. I used my old vega crossmember from my transdapt kit for the trans mount and crossmember. If I was smart I would have used the front mounts also...I ever had them on the engine when I was test fitting it.

Speaking of Suspension geometry...in a rear suspension setup...if your rear lower control arms arent perfectly adjusted the same length, this will cause binding right? How much room for error is there? 1/16", 1/8", 1/4"?

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Re: Suspension Geometry for tube chassis?

Postby gerbsinmd » Wed Nov 26, 2008 11:26 am

Shred, Have you tried Monza headers in your 57? Has anyone tried them in another car? Its something I often wondered about, don' t know why, but I have.
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Re: Suspension Geometry for tube chassis?

Postby Astre-mutt » Wed Nov 26, 2008 12:04 pm

If you can't go inside the frame, you could go outside the frame. Not to sure even these would fit where the motor is now, but.
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Re: Suspension Geometry for tube chassis?

Postby Sirshredalot » Wed Nov 26, 2008 11:28 pm

Yes...I tried the monza headers...the hooker 2129s and they wont fit the passenger side. I have side mounts welded in the 57.

But I was browsing speedway motors and found these that look promising.

boom tube headers.jpg


chassis headers.jpg


high velocity headers.jpg


street stock headers.jpg


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Re: Suspension Geometry for tube chassis?

Postby Sirshredalot » Wed Nov 26, 2008 11:31 pm

Ive got a set of flowtech headers for a 70 nova that are perfect on the drivers side, but that passenger side sux...if I only had a mirror of the driver side to fit the passenger side Id be in business.

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Re: Suspension Geometry for tube chassis?

Postby Sirshredalot » Sat Dec 06, 2008 12:57 am

BACK ON TOPIC!

I am sorting out the suspension bugs, basically planning to start the rear suspension.
Ive got my springs, shock, and ladder bars.

My question is....Where do I mount it?

My frame rails are 2x3 rectangle tube, and theyre 20" apart inside width, 22" on center.

Do I want to mounts my ladder bars directly under the frame rails? Coil springs on the outside of the frame rails?
If I put the ladder bar right under the frame rails though this makes the rear suspension very narrow. How would this affect things like body roll, stability, and traction?
I will of course be fabbing a panhard rod too.

I can fab up any crossmember that I need, but I dont know where to mount everything to get the most strength.
I would think that one would want to mount the ladder bars right under the frame rails for the most lift.
The springs could be mounted to the outside of the frame because they woudnt see as much load...?
I could just fab some coil perches on the outside of the frame rails and weld up the mounts on the diff.

I also have an odd set of ladder bars that are really short...I got them from a local speed shop.
Theyre Chrome-Moly and 25 1/2" on eye centers with the joint all the way in. The lower front and rear joints are adjustable, but the upper mount is fixed.
I thought that most ladder bars where about 33" long? I have access to a longer set of ladder bars also.
Is a shorter bar better? Ive heard that it doesnt matter.

As far as where to mount the bars in relation to the axle centers, is it better to have the bars lower to the ground or higher into the chassis? Does it matter?
Like mounting the lower control arms lower to the rear axle helps with traction...would this be the case with ladder bars too? Especially since theyre so short...like a control arm?

Ive never set up a suspension like this before...and its proving to be a formidable adversary.
Ive got a set of coil springs that are almost the same rate as monza springs...a little lighter, but not much. Coil overs arent in the budget yet.

I appreciate all the input that you guys have as well as positive or negative comments, all constructive criticism is welcome.

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-Shred
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Re: Suspension Geometry for tube chassis?

Postby Astre-mutt » Sat Dec 06, 2008 2:14 am

This should get you thinking. http://www.webrodder.com/article.php?AID=118&SID=60

Same story without pictures, but easier to read. http://74.125.45.132/search?q=cache:35c ... d=22&gl=us
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Re: Suspension Geometry for tube chassis?

Postby 2lucke4u » Tue Dec 16, 2008 2:18 am

Shred
I have only had two with ladders,,the shorter bars will be more stable if it will see more street use than strip,,you WILL be using a locator/panhard rod???
look at the amount of companies selling truck arm type suspension setups for drag cars,,I can only think of one, Hot Rods To Hell,the durability of the short side of your question is proved by the 1000's of factory applications,,if the truck arm style ,[long version ]was efficient,it would be on production cars,,stick with the short ones is my opinion,get the suspension as close as you can to YOUR definition of perfect and don,t sweat the 1/16,s,you will have the full adjustment of the bars to work with,both front and rear,up and down,as far as the street and ladders,my 66 chevelle was a rattle trap after 100 miles on the street,at the time poly bushings were not readily available,they are now so no worries,on my 75 monza with short ladders and a locator,and a spyder front sway bar I beat the devil out of it for a year,cornering like a madman that stole it and never had a problem,the car wore the old micky I-blocks about 20 wide,if I remember correctly those bars were 22 inches,we fabbed a front mount from a trashed rollbar that was laying around,,good luck,,,now the fun begins,,
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