The Official H-Body Internet Community

As if I didn't have enough problems finding time to get back to work on my "stalled" Vega wagon project, I now have ANOTHER project; I just purchased a partially completed Jeg's chassis and 12-point cage kit which I intend to use to resurrect my very rusty black 76 GT into a drag car. The main rails and most of the crossmembers are assembled and the front suspension is attached, but the rest is just a pile of tubing with the main hoop and halo bar pre-bent. Also included in the purchase were a narrowed 9" housing, a set of ladder bars and the rear coil-overs. According to the 20 year old instructions that came with it(!!!), the front of the frame is set up for the H-body control arms to be swapped left for right to gain clearance width for a big block, and it's got mounting tabs for a Pinto rack. Also in the instructions is a how-to for modifying the spindles to take a heim joint instead of a tie rod; obviously, a race-only mod.
Now for the questions: Does anybody out there still run this "old school" frame setup? If so, how evil is the handling with all 4 of the control arms on the wrong sides? I seems to me the geometry would be a real mess, but the instructions claim it should have 0 camber and +5 caster which sounds fine to me.

Which arms are to be switched side-to-side? It's not an uncommon practice to swap the upper arms. On a stock vehicle, this would give you somewhere in the neighborhood of 5-7 degrees of positive caster, but it puts the upper ball joint at a severe angle. I would be interested to see if they changed the mounting points on your chassis to see if the angle is still a problem.

Chuck

Chuck- According to the instructions, the attachment points for all 4 control arms are designed for them to install left for right. I presume this is because the control arms are not symetrical, and by swapping them around allows for the frame to be at a different angle than stock which allows for the much wider big block. This thing is bought and paid for, but I have to round up a trailer to go pick it up about a half hour away. When I get it home I'll be doing some careful comparison measurements between it and the stock frame to see exactly what's the difference.I also intend to scan and post the detailed instructions, which could be of great help to anyone building a frame & cage from scratch.- Spencer

spencerforhire wrote: I also intend to scan and post the detailed instructions, which could be of great help to anyone building a frame & cage from scratch.- Spencer

That would be awesome.

I thought this frame/cage kit was "old school"; as it turns out, Jeg's still sells it under part#940005K1! I think I'll shoot them an email to see if I can get some updated instructions before I post the old photocopies that I have.

I finally got around to bringing home my "Jegster" chassis! Check out the front control arms on the opposite sides from where they were meant to be; headers should be a piece of cake. The "ladder-link" bars have cool , turnbuckle-like adjusters that don't require unbolting the rod ends for chassis tuning. I have TON of measuring to do before I can do any more assembly, but I am excited! I'd like to hang the rear end to make it easier to move around, but to get wheels under it will require buying axles and I'm not sure if the 39" housing is right for a Vega(14 32's might be a tight squeeze) There's detailed instructions for the 10 or 12 point cage, and the bars are all pre-bent; I've even been offered the use of a tubing notcher to ease the assembly. I think i have "racing fever"; the TPI/T-5 wagon street car might have to wait.....

I used one of those jegster front frame kits on a tube chassis car I built, worked out nicely, as said, the reason you swap the a arms is for the caster angle gain for high speed stability, slows the steering down so the car isnt twitchy on top end. Now youll want to get that frame all set up on a make shift jig, all level from front to back and side to side, gut your body out and place it on top,get body height set at where you want it to be to desired ride height and block it up. Then tack in all your hoops/tubes,then remove body to finish weld all the cage. Reinstall body onto tube outriggers, its not hard, just take your time and use a square and a level.

Add: the housing will work,youll add on about 2 3/8 extra each side for axle offset, so your right there, just depends on the backspacing of the rim used,you could still run 32x14x15 slicks with a 43 3/4 inch wide rearaxle.

I can truely say that if that pile of parts was at my house, I would NEVER get it to look like a car again! I will say a prayer for you.

I will now attempt to post the Jeg's instructions that I scanned; the last time I tried to do multiple attachments, I ran into some kind of "daily limit" that this board has. Today' it's 5. I'll do the last 2 tomorrow.

Here's the last 2 pages(I hope)

Thanks for taking the time to post the instructions.

Looks like a slick project, like a lifesize model kit

I was surprised to see that it comes set up with four lug rotors, but then i see it was intended for the factory h-body spindles.
I suppose that makes sens, as it makes it more affordable. Plus I have 4 lug 15 X 3 centerlines on my Vega....they were very popular on drag car h-bodies in the 70's / 80's (which , I am thinking is when this kit was engineered).

Of course the higher end drag cars would use spindle mount wheels and macpherson struts ( LOL remember when they were called macpherson struts? ) )

The 4-bolt front hubs are definitely one of the first things that's got to go; I have both redrilled to 5on4.75" Monza rotors and a set of S-10 spindles and Bob Gumm ball joint adapters. It will probably end up with it's control arms modified to take the S-10 ball joints. I don't mind cutting up the control arms, because they've already had their sway bar brackets torched off(so they'll fit on the "wrong" sides), and the spring pockets are a little seedy. I need to get this thing to the point of rolling on 4 wheels so I can move it around more easily, so the ladder bar mounts are actually the top priority.

Spencer
I called Jegs and got ahold of the frame shop and they do sell the front of your frame but do not list the rear any more. The number you listed is for the new kit with the bolt on front section. They told me they could still build exactly what you have in a 4 link or ladder bar any wheel size and wheel base for $609.00 includes roll bar + the front frame any style Vega/Pinto any width for $439.00 with 3 weeks to build. I live 2 hrs from Jegs and can save on shipping. I plan to order 1 the first of June. Can't wait, your pics got me motivated.

Thanks Mark

Have you ordered this yet?

I'm behind on other projects for customers right now. I'm looking at September 1st now. I will start a project journel when I get started.


Mark