8pt cage... questions and concerns!

[71LS1Vega]

I just ordered a chrome moly 8pt cage from S&W racecars i went with that because i dont think i want to hack my dash all to crap and im not sure about the whole welding up tward the roof of the car and messing the paint all up. i should have posted before i ordered it but i had a few questions....

I talked to the guy and i know its no problem adding on the bars later on if need be. also i plan on running as close to 10.0 as possible and hopefully actually getting into the 9s where i would need the 10pt. i also know that you would need the 10pt if you have a modified firewall or subframe or both. i want the car to be stiff since ill be pushing 520-550whp and a 6-speed car. The problem with adding the bars later would be the fact that the size of the bars for the roof hoop and a-pilar bars would be different thickness. it still is legal in NHRA.

i didnt know if there was a trick to welding without messing the paint all up. with the 8pt i know there is no problem what so ever.... but i do plan on trying to get into the 9's. the first year ill be just trying to get the bugs out of the car on the track then shoot for the 9's the following year.

Im probably not going to put alot of the interior back in it so adding the bars later wont be a big issue. Am i worrying too much? our local track has 9 second stock body cars where the guys are just wearing helmets! lol i want to be more safe but it just shows this track is not very good at checking what people have. but i want to run at lebannon valley a few times and they are 100% more strick down there....

i think i just made this post to get my thoughts out and see what you guys think.

[vega 350]

I think you should just build it for the 9's now while you are doing the cage to save you the trouble of doing it later. You can never be to safe. I'm over doing my car just in case i get a bigger motor. It just saves time

[chevyart]

ask one of the techies at SW race cars. they practically invented the vega chassis and roll cages a long time ago and have lots of experience. i think its best to do it all now, while you have the time and desire to do the whole cage. probably much easier too just my opinion chevy art

[megavega]

There is no problem with welding the front windshield bars as far as messing up the paint anymore then the rear strut bars,both are at the top of the roof. I simply tape up the windows with cardboard and duct tape to prevent the welding spatter from melting into the safety coating on glass.( you can even wipe down the cardboard with a wet towel before to deflect even more spatter). In my opinion,I would add all the cage at 1 time,its usually cheaper and easier since all the interior is already out. Also adding the front cage portion does alot to tie the car together and stiffen it up, be sure to incorporate a crossbar under dash.

Add: for a heat shield between roof and roll cage tubing for both the rear strut bars and front windshield bars, you can just use a small sheet of aluminum, although you should have a good 3/8"-7/16" of clearance, any closer then that and you cant weld the tops of the bars. A trick for the windshield bars is to tack the down bars to halo, tip the assembly down in the rear and weld the tops before you weld the tubes to the main hoop!

[71LS1Vega]

Alot of good tips. i just worry about the paint... i just ordered it yesterday and they wont start bending till tuesday-thursday so i can probably call and change the order. i want it to be stiff but i dont want to have to hack the dash all up either.

Im going to search in a minute but do you guys know of any websites that have a step by step procedure on the cage? basically where to start first ect.

[megavega]

maybe take a peek at my build journal here, in the project section, youll see you wont burn the paint and basicly how to install a cage, I left out the rear crossbar, and also the door diagnal bars because my car is NOT a race car and I dont have to meet any rulebook specs driving iton the street. You always install the main hoop first, then fit your front windshield bars and halo, I can walk you thru this. You will also get instructions with the cage. By the way, theres absolutley no cutting of the dash for a 10 point cage unless you have the bars ordered to go thru the dash, otherwise they end before the dash down to the kickpanel area.

[71LS1Vega]

Thats awsome! ill check it out! and also i thought there is a diagonal bar that goes across/behind the dash to connect both windshield bars... maybe i am mistaken?

[Sirshredalot]

There is a dash bar or a knee bar and it does just what you are talking about.

Install it AS HIGH AS YOU CAN!. Sorry for yelling, but its a pain in the butt(and knees) to work around one that is mounted too low. I really like the dash bar because its also conveinient for mounting accessory relays and such too keep em out of sight.

God bless
-Shred