5 LUG FRONT BRAKES

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5 LUG FRONT BRAKES

Postby h-bot » Sun Oct 17, 1999 12:54 am

From: monzamiler_REMOVE_989095_THIS_@yahoo.com


Aerospace Components,#AC 240 For
2600lbs.-3100lbs.For car's using stock
spindle's
<a href=http://www.aerospacecomponents.com target=new>http://www.aerospacecomponents.com</a>
Wilwood Engineering, For S-10/79-87 Malibu spindle's.For
2800lbs. and
up.
<a href=http://www.magnumforceracing.com/wilwood.htm target=new>http://www.magnumforceracing.com/wilwood.htm</a>
Dave's Vega Village,5 lug Rotor's for Vega and Monza
spindle's.Phone/Fax 1-604-469-9979


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5 Lug front brakes

Postby h-bot » Fri Dec 10, 1999 6:03 pm

From: monzamess_REMOVE_878264_THIS_@yahoo.com


Are those the Aerospace equipment (5-lug)
brakes?

I've considered those but I want to know--
where do
you get replacement rotors? Only
from AE? What if
they dry up and blow away?
(or, more likely, get
bought out by someone else)?

Also, for road
racing, the drilling is bad.
If the holes are CAST
into the rotors (like
on Porsches), they're good.
Otherwise, if they're
drilled, the rotors tend to start
cracking between
the holes. This might not be an issue
for street
use, but do you really need drilled
rotors
for street use?


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5 Lug front brakes

Postby h-bot » Mon Dec 13, 1999 7:59 am

From: Venom_Symbiot_REMOVE_638096_THIS_@yahoo.com


I've weighed the pros and cons as they apply to
me and I feel there are more reasons to go with the
GM brakes (S10, Monte Carlo, & others) because I
don't plan on driving in a bubble. I mean, if I go on a
500 or 1000 mile road trip, the chances of finding
replacement parts for the custom setup will probably be zero
unless I break down right in front of their business.
Using the factory made parts, I can count on most any
car parts store being able to supply the needed part
and get me going again. With the GM setup, the only
truly custom part is the modified control arms and or
spindles. These rarely go bad and even if they do, if you
keep detailed documentation on what you did to
accomplish the modification, then duplicating it will be
much easier and most any machine shop (available
throughout the world) can probably assist in get you back on
the road.

That is the whole reason I started
my site "Building the V8 Monza". It just seemed to
make sense to ask, "what works" and post the answers
on the web. That way, we can all learn through our
combined experiences, greatly shorten the learning curve
and improve the design as we go. For instance, I am
not only concerned with the price of the equipment,
but the long-term impact of the parts and their
geometry on the way the vehicle responds and the tire wear
pattern. Although the custom parts may be cost prohibitive
or hard to come by, they may offer better wear. But
I have never heard of anyone saying that the
geometry was adversely affected in any way.

Choose
whichever system you think will work best for you. But keep
this in mind, drilled rotors offer no (zero, zip
nadda) advantage over non-drilled rotors. Originally the
rotors where drilled to aid evacuation of the hot gases
generated by the heated pads. The hot gases used to create
a cushion between the pads and rotor making it
nearly impossible to stop the vehicle. The corrective
action was to drill the rotors so that the gases would
be carried away and allow the pads to continue
contact the rotor. Today's brake pads do not generate the
hot gases. As a matter of fact, leading brake
manufacturers will tell you that the technology has advanced to
the point where the holes are no longer required, but
that many folks still want the drilled rotors because
they "look cool". The drilled rotors actually have a
shorter life span and provide less braking ability when
compared to non-drilled rotors.

PS You can use my
statements on your websites if you like, just give me
credit.

Just my 5 cents,
Bob Gumm
"Building the V8
Monza"
<a href=http://www.datasys.net/~dagumm/ target=new>http://www.datasys.net/~dagumm/</a>


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5 Lug front brakes

Postby h-bot » Mon Dec 13, 1999 2:21 pm

From: monzamess_REMOVE_397089_THIS_@yahoo.com


Just some ramblings... brakes have been on
my
mind a lot lately since my car currently has
none.

I was about to dump about $1000 into
the AE
front brakes and new rear disc brakes, but
then I
started reading "The Brake Handbook" by Fred Puhn.


I'm starting to think that the S-10
brakes up
front with an aggressive pad, along
with rebuilt
stock rear brakes, might work out.
They would
certainly be good for street use,
and probably maybe
drag racing or autocross
where the brakes have
time to cool down after
hard use.

However,
I'm still undecided whether or not
I'll do road
course track events (lapping
sessions, whatever) with
my car. In that case,
the S-10 front/stock rear
would be insufficient.
They'd probably fade after a
few laps, like
my ex-'97 Z28 brakes did. Sure, the
Z28 weighs
more, but its brakes are bigger too. So
this
is a guess, but probably a good one.
Adding
cooling ducts and playing with different pad
compounds
can help, but I'd rather have
Superman-quality
brakes if I could afford them.

For hard use of
brakes, duo-servo drum brakes
(i.e., the kind on our
cars and all modern cars)
have very little fade
resistance. Plus hard
braking causes weight transfer to
the front brakes.
So basically, the rear drums
become useless
(due to weight transfer) and couldn't
do much
anyway (due to fade). So maybe I'll have
to
plunk down some change for the rear
discs.
Then I'd need bigger fronts to balance that
out.
AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAARRRRRRRRRRRRRRGGGGHHHHH!

How about this plan for "ultimate" bolt-on brakes:
Use the S-10 spindles, which (PLEASE correct me
if
I'm wrong) are the same as the 3rd-gen
Camaro
spindles. Then, use a good third-party brake
package for
a 3rd-gen Camaro (like Wilwood or
Baer) with
those spindles. That would be pretty
much the
ultimate braking system for a Monza
without going to
custom fabrication (not counting
the spindle
adaptors). I *think* some of
those packages use Corvette
discs and calipers, so
you'd be able to find
replacements anywhere
(though you'd pay more). I need to
check this
out further!

P.S. What year Jimmy
are you talking about?
I have a '97 S-10. The
front brakes may still
be the same, but my S-10 has
huge rear drums
compared to my Monza. That makes a
big difference
for normal driving and towing. I
like my S-10's
brakes for normal driving (I even
autocrossed
it twice) but they would die on a road course.


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5 Lug front brakes

Postby h-bot » Mon Dec 13, 1999 2:50 pm

From: TWOTONEJIM_REMOVE_876831_THIS_@yahoo.com


Okay I understand,
One thing not to piss you
off but, they went to a vented rotor in 1976. I used
parts from a 1976 spindles, rotors, mastercylinder
.
With the ford rear end brakes I see no need to
go
the s-10 or other up grade. The only thing I'm not to
sure of is the redrilled rotors from 4 to 5 lug.


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5 Lug front brakes

Postby h-bot » Mon Dec 13, 1999 3:05 pm

From: turbobird80_REMOVE_441830_THIS_@yahoo.com


Sorry, I should have been more specific, I mean
only the fronts are the same size, of course not the
rears. But I too feel that under heavy braking, the
rears don't have much work to do esp. if the car in
question is v-8 powered. even on my rx-7 (50:50 weight
dist)the rears are not as big and are only 1 piston
calipers. The upgrade to aftermarket camaro stuff sounds
good, but what size wheel will you have to use? 12"
rotors usually need 16" wheels and bigger rotors....
well you get the idea. what are you going to do with
your car? Ours will be for heavy street duty, so I'm
comfortable with the s-10 hardware plus I have v-6 front end
weight, and battery in the trunk.If you are road racing
you need as much as you can possibly put on . but as
you know pretty much all other uses pale by
comparison.If you decide to do road course, good luck! let us
know what you get to do the job, 'cause that will be
the ultimate brake system for us street guys!
Jay


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5 Lug front brakes

Postby h-bot » Mon Dec 13, 1999 6:04 pm

From: monzamess_REMOVE_423728_THIS_@yahoo.com


Well, I've got the wheels (16x7.5") but they
rub.
I plan on using the Hooker
through-the-fenderwell
headers, which will make the problem worse! :)
Frankly
I'm not sure what to do yet. I will need
some way
to limit the steering travel, but I
don't want
it to make the turning radius
too big.
My
S-10 has a HUGE turning radius, and it handles
OK
(for a truck), so it may not be a big deal...
but
I'm still learning about suspension setups.
One
problem is that my wheels have a 4" backspace.
3.5" or
3" would be better, but hey, they
were cheap. :)
They're meant to be "street wheels"
and I'd probably
pick up some used Camaro
or S-10 16x8, 3.5"
backspace wheels for competition, or if I don't get big-ass
brakes,
I'll get wheels actually meant for the track,
15x10
or 15x8 with slicks.
I think the most important
thing is weight
reduction (yeah, so I'm adding a V8!
Duh).
My ex-Civic Si braked GREAT with no fade
on
the road course, and it has brakes that
a friend
on mine called "cute." (really small)
But I doubt
it was over 2500lbs.
I might be able to get the
Monza near that
weight but it's not a major goal of
mine.
I'd prefer to keep an interior and
street-legal
bumpers.

Basically, I need to choose a direction for
the car.
Autocross (CP class) is most likely.
I'm not a big drag
racing fan, and if I really
get into road racing,
I'll go into Spec RX7
class, with a car that
doesn't have as much
sentimental value (I'm not
spending months
cleaning up the underside of my car
just to
go smash it up!).


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5 Lug front brakes

Postby h-bot » Mon Dec 13, 1999 7:09 pm

From: turbobird80_REMOVE_664735_THIS_@yahoo.com


Way cool, we have a turbo v-6 in our sunbird but
I don't think it would be good for road race. We
are rebuilding the front end right now, and I have
noticed a few things. 1) the rear lower a arm pivots
don't have any true support side to side like the front
does(k frame) so it must deflect under heavy braking.
I'm looking how to tie the two together now. 2) late
80's trans am GTA's have a 2.5 turn lock to lock
steering box. 3) there is a company that rebuilds these
boxes and can make a ragjoint to join different spline
steering shafts to boxes. 4) probably old news, the rubber
bushings in the front is a joke. replace with polyurethane
if your class allows it.I want to also weld up the K
frame and bolt it to the body with grade 8 hardware.
The company is www.mullinssteeringgears.com .Good
luck!


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5 Lug front brakes

Postby h-bot » Mon Dec 13, 1999 7:28 pm

From: Tonyhallo_REMOVE_742280_THIS_@yahoo.com


Check out the reinforcement behind the rear
bolts. It acts as a shear plate that connects to the
rocker and floor. As for grade 8 bolts, the original
bolts with the large heavy flat washer are probally
better. The bolts are only connecting sheet metal
together.


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