alignment/ k-member

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alignment/ k-member

Postby h-bot » Tue Jan 25, 2000 6:03 pm

From: mich_southpaw46_REMOVE_480514_THIS_@yahoo.com


If I'm not mistaken, the upper portion of the
suspension on each side is trying to move toward each other.
If someone used a cable, they would have to go
underneath the suspension? I've never seen a cable that has
much pushing strength, only pulling
strength.

Maybe something over the engine with a big turnbuckle?


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alignment/ k-member

Postby h-bot » Tue Jan 25, 2000 7:10 pm

From: nickster1_99_REMOVE_274899_THIS_@yahoo.com


What I meant was a type of turnbuckle, to squeeze
the lower part of the body together. another option
would be like an upper tie bar like on the newer fwd
cars (pontiac-bonneville) to push the body out. will
examine options when engine is in the engine bay of mine.


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alignment/ k-member

Postby h-bot » Tue Jan 25, 2000 11:18 pm

From: mongoose_brew_REMOVE_246800_THIS_@yahoo.com


I don't mean to butt in, just trying to
help.

It seems to me, if you have enough room above the
engine and below the hood, an easy fix to your problem
is an inner and an outer tie rod end attached to
small diameter chromoly tube. Whether the adjustment
nuts are welded in place for threads or you tap them
yourself doesn't matter. Just make sure it's adjustable to
where you want it. I would use the gaps between the
hood and fenders for reference. Keep in mind the inner
and outer tie rods are threaded differently, one is
right hand threads and the other left. With a little
effort, you could make this even look pretty nice under
the hood.

Just a note. If any welding is done,
with the exception of TIG or Heli-arc, just to be on
the safe side, oil anneal the weld area. When you
apply a weld to steel and most other metals, you alter
the rigidity of the metal, making it softer. To
regain this stiffness, heat the metal (steel) to just
shy of cherry red, almost white and dip it in
annealing oil. If you don't have annealing oil, use a heavy
weight oil such as straight weight 50. STAND BACK AND
DON"T BREATH THGE FUMES. Allow the metal to cool on
it's own in the oil. You may do the other side when
the metal is cool to the touch. Don't use water!
Don't do this inside, keep a fire extinguisher ready.
And definitely, do not use used engine oil. It may
have gasoline in it from weak rings and bang instant
bar-b-que. Make sure the metal is NOT cherry red, no sense
taking chances with combustibility.

This won't
replace all the lost rigidity, but it will certainly
help.

I'm considering doing the same for my Monza. I don't
have any problems yet, but it sure wouldn't hurt to
stiffen the nose a little.

Brew
mongoose_brew


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