sub frame connectors

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sub frame connectors

Postby h-bot » Wed Dec 27, 2000 2:42 am

From: HoooooYaaaaa_REMOVE_709875_THIS_@yahoo.com


some one tell me where to get the connectors for my Monza?? Ty Kevin


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sub frame connectors

Postby h-bot » Thu Jan 11, 2001 3:47 pm

From: monzapla_REMOVE_679352_THIS_@yahoo.com


Did you ever find any sub frame connectors for your monza? I have also been looking for some, but I don't like what I've found so far. So, I'm designing my own.
Perry


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sub frame connectors

Postby h-bot » Fri Jan 12, 2001 1:13 am

From: denisst78_REMOVE_551013_THIS_@yahoo.com


I`m making a set for my
1978 Spyder,

those are gona be weld on
they will also replace
the OEM
torque boxes (were the rear lower

control arms bolt into the body)
I also need to make
a set for my 1980
Spyder, much less HP in mind
for this
car so they will be BOLT ON
I migh
make some of those for members
BTW,
for those
who asked me about
the tubular rear control i
migh have
found the bushings i wanted ,
I need
to phone back two companies
and make some
arrangement,
After that i`ll get back to you

Denis


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sub frame connectors

Postby h-bot » Fri Jan 12, 2001 1:32 am

From: Phantom402_REMOVE_977640_THIS_@yahoo.com


hey if you ever know anybody who wants a chap up
grade to a monza get an s10 rear end and
springs.
Cut down front part of springs by measureing from
center of spring bolt hole to where you drill 3/8 hole
for centering bolt then measure back to back of
spring pad.
either use competition eng spring pads or
cut old ones off so you can set pinion angle
(recommmend 2.5 to 4 deg. down weld 3 in.angle to spring pad
with angle forward and some mounts for shocks(set at a
good angle, for stability, and point bolts towards
center of car,bolt threads can tear up tires real
good)
have drive shaft made for proper length and use large
yokes and s10 ujoints and add conversion joint to front
unless you use thm400.
And remember 89 up s10's with
4.3 can have 8.5 10 bolt (look for tubes that taper
after coming out of center section).Works great and to
install all you have to do is ream out lower control arm
holes in body to fit factory s10 spring bolts.
Oh
and this means "NO TORQUE ARM"
Any questions let
me know cause this works great.
Lee


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sub frame connectors

Postby h-bot » Fri Jan 12, 2001 1:40 am

From: Phantom402_REMOVE_856055_THIS_@yahoo.com


whoopps i forgot your springs need to be 13 in. from center of hole to centering bolt then clamp the springs and drive!!!!!


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sub frame connectors

Postby h-bot » Fri Jan 12, 2001 12:40 pm

From: Murfys_1_REMOVE_471311_THIS_@yahoo.com


Denis,

I am interested in your ideas for
your subframe connectors as I am about to do the same
thing. The thought was to start at the rear frame
section and connect it solidly to the front section,
probably eliminating the front jack pad where the
over-the-counter ties connect to now. The thought is that we could
somehow get the connectors inside or along the existing
frame sections and have a much larger connection/weld
surface. Probably in the process, you'd end up replacing
or altering the control arm mounting
points.

Also, am DEFINITELY interested in tubular lower control
arms. Would need 2 sets, but right now could really use
the first set. How close are you?


Joe

Thoughts?


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sub frame connectors

Postby h-bot » Fri Jan 12, 2001 1:45 pm

From: denisst78_REMOVE_900912_THIS_@yahoo.com


Joe,
here`s the idea for the weld in

frame i got...

Cut out the existing rear
torque
box,only the front part of it,
cut a 3
inch wide strip of the
floorpan ( next to the
pinch
line)cut a bit of the verta pack
pad (next
the tranny cross member)
then weld the frame in
the car
and enjoy a better chassis

bolt
on will be very similar but
will us a lower
profile steel
tubing,
will bolt to the rear lower
control
arms, follow the pinch line,
bolt to the
verta-pack pads,
and bolt right behind the front
wheel

For the control arms.
read next mess..


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sub frame connectors

Postby h-bot » Fri Jan 12, 2001 1:51 pm

From: denisst78_REMOVE_108736_THIS_@yahoo.com


here`s what i got so far,
rear panhard bar i
already have
2 of them made (one for each of my
cars)
and the steel jig to make them is also

made
they consist of a rod end on one side
and a
polyurethane bushing on the other

Rear control
arms,
I tried around 5 companies to have a

specific bushing, i don`t want to use
bushings for
regular monza becasue we don`t
know how long we will
still be able to get
some, i want a popular
bushing, so that in a
couple of years will have some
replacement
parts,
now i migh have found just what
i was
looking for the rear ones,the front
are
0.400" longuer so, i might use a spacer or

try to find a longuer bushing

Any ways,

when they`ll be ready i`ll post
news on them


BTW,
Ask Bob how longs it takes to do

something right...

Denis


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sub frame connectors

Postby h-bot » Sat Jan 13, 2001 9:50 pm

From: racemonza355_REMOVE_743139_THIS_@yahoo.com


im interested if you have any photos or more info let me know -- what do you know about the upper shock mounts i think i broke mine any info is welcome and appreciated


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sub frame connectors

Postby h-bot » Sun Jan 14, 2001 1:55 pm

From: denisst78_REMOVE_407023_THIS_@yahoo.com


I don`t have any pics yet,
but i`ll have some soon
For your upper shock mounts
where did they break?
did the shock itself broke?
or is it the plate in the body?

Denis


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sub frame connectors

Postby h-bot » Wed Feb 21, 2001 5:36 pm

From: ian_mccrimmon_REMOVE_930904_THIS_@yahoo.com


There is an interesting article in the March 2001
issue of Car Craft where they install a roll cage in a
86 Mustang (ugh!); they also added subframe
connectors as well. They were custom made from 1 5/8" mild
steel tubing and 1/8" steel plate mounting brackets. It
has given me some ideas about making my own....


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