High Output alternators

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Re: High Output alternators

Postby 70styleVega » Mon Oct 17, 2011 10:46 pm

:th: I gotta get me one of these....
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Re: High Output alternators

Postby zzip » Wed Dec 11, 2013 6:19 pm

Thanks Zeke for this awsome information .

Grtz

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Re: High Output alternators

Postby zeke » Thu Dec 12, 2013 11:08 am

Your welcome Peter.

The CS130 has much more low rpm output than a 12 Si alternator does. So if you need lots of current at idle (electric fans) then it is far superior imo. The reason for this is the much larger magnetic field created by the rotor coil. This is due to the fact that the coil is wound much higher on the core bobbin and better quality steel is used for the pole fingers. Also, with modern day production cnc machining, the gap from the rotor to the stator core is much smaller.

If you want the stock h-body appearance, you can take the guts out of a 94 amp 12Si and put them all in your 10Si case without modification but idle voltage may drop under heavy loads.
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Re: High Output alternators

Postby jpb04619 » Thu Dec 12, 2013 12:02 pm

The CS130 has much more low rpm output than a 12 Si alternator does. So if you need lots of current at idle (electric fans) then it is far superior imo.


what he said...anything else is something out of the stone ages....one wire has it's own problems.........i even put a cs on an '57 crawler where it's high output at low rpm makes it ideal.........john b
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Re: High Output alternators

Postby duckblaster67 » Thu Dec 12, 2013 6:57 pm

On the 10SI you just need to swap out the stator. Wilson Electric makes a 100amp stator: part # 67-01-3322A.
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Re: High Output alternators

Postby zeke » Thu Dec 12, 2013 7:10 pm

duckblaster67 wrote:On the 10SI you just need to swap out the stator. Wilson Electric makes a 100amp stator: part # 67-01-3322A.


12Si has a different rotor, different stator, different rectifier and a different regulator. You can swap only the stator coil as DB suggests, but u won't get the intended output without the 12Si rotor/regulator. The 12 Si proper rotor has different fingers than the 10Si and a different coil draw ~ 5 to 6 amps on 12 volts whereas 10Si rotors generaly draw between 2.5 to 3.5 amps. Less primary magnetic field = less secondary output.
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Re: High Output alternators

Postby zeke » Thu Dec 12, 2013 7:34 pm

There seems to be some confusion about Si rectifiers, here's a graphic I made showing the differences between:
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Re: High Output alternators

Postby zeke » Fri Jan 20, 2017 1:15 am

bump
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Re:

Postby 74_Vega_GT » Sat Jul 11, 2020 9:19 am

[quote="zeke"]
Pin 1 - Larger pin than the other 3 and this is the sense wire. This needs to go to battery positive in at least 12 gauge. Dont just loop it to the output terminal.

[/quote
~ I knew I had read this somewhere...Why should that wire NOT be jumpered over from the big 12v post? Is it because the output at 14.5 v would then feed back into the sense wire? Just had the debate over this issue last evening with my buddy helping me on the build, he says that the wire is not needed and that if it was energized, then the alternators' internal voltage regulator would always be energized causing premature failure. Sorry for replying to such an older post, Thanks in advance.
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Re: Re:

Postby zeke » Sat Jul 11, 2020 11:20 am

74_Vega_GT wrote:
zeke wrote:Pin 1 - Larger pin than the other 3 and this is the sense wire. This needs to go to battery positive in at least 12 gauge. Dont just loop it to the output terminal.

[/quote
~ I knew I had read this somewhere...Why should that wire NOT be jumpered over from the big 12v post? Is it because the output at 14.5 v would then feed back into the sense wire? Just had the debate over this issue last evening with my buddy helping me on the build, he says that the wire is not needed and that if it was energized, then the alternators' internal voltage regulator would always be energized causing premature failure. Sorry for replying to such an older post, Thanks in advance.


He's right about not having to have it hooked up. He's wrong about it keeping the regulator turned on.

Sense wire is meant to sense the voltage AT the battery, not at the output terminal. Provides better regulation this way. The charge wire carries large currents and therefore has a voltage drop, so with sense hooked to the output terminal, it's getting incorrect info. It will work with sense looped to output, people have been doing that since the 10Si came out, just not the way it's designed to operate.
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