battery cut off switch

[theodorracer]

any body know of a site or have a diagram of the correct way to wire up a cut off switch so it will cut off all power. kills the engine!

thanks!!!

[Jitterbugdude]

Just take a 50 amp toggle switch and tie into your coil wire. Locate the switch under your dash. Makes for a great anit theft device.

Randy B

[Astre-mutt]

Not sure if this is what you've been looking for. I saw this at Summit. Painless Wiring battery remote kill switch. Cost just over $125.

[Sirshredalot]

Wiring it to the coil wire will kill the motor but if youve got an electric fuel pump it wont kill that...nice little fire hazard.

What you could do is wire in a starter solenoid (ford style, F492) in line with your positive battery cable and also have the feed from the alternator tie into it. That way it would kill all power....do the same for safetly sake with the fuel pump....

Then control the solenoid with a 4 pin 30 amp relay wired to your kill switch...Viola!....dead car.

God bless
-Shred

[spyder_xlch]

That's all the summit kit is, a solenoid, a relay, and a push button switch. You could do it yourself for $20-$30. You wouldn't need a relay really. You can by a solenoid that is "normally closed" (as opposed to a started solenoid that is normally open). Hook the battery cable to one side and on the other side you'd hook the starter and alternator cables. You'd need a toggle switch to activate the solenoid. One side of the toggle would go to battery and the other would go to the soleniod. A relay isn't needed because the current needed to activate the soleniod isn't very great.

[spencerforhire]

A Ford style starter solenoid is not meant for continuous duty, but there is a similar looking solenoid relay that is usually available at large truck parts dealers that can be left on for extended periods.

[SunbirdMan]

I borrowed and edited one of the wiring diagrams posted by spencerforhire. I cut out the clutter to make it easier to see. The cars power goes from the battery to the starter motor. There it goes #10 gauge red to a splice which is wrapped in the wiring harness right around the passengerside of the carb. It has constant power to the alternator. The other direction two # 10 reds go toward the bulkhead connector. As they come out of the wrapped wiring harness, one goes to the a/c along the firewall. The other wire is spliced to a fusible link at the bulkhead connector. This is the wire that powers everything else. If you intecept this wire (before the fusible link) and put a on/off switch in it, shutting it off will kill lights, ignition, accessories, fuelpump,choke, you name it. One switch is all it takes.
(by the way, I think it was a cheesy idea to put a fusible link right into the bulkhead connector as if it ever burned up you'd have to disassemble the connector to replace it.)

[spyder_xlch]

Yes, it would have to be continuous duty. But an even easier way would be to get a master switch and run the battery to one side, power to everything else on the other side. If you wanted a remote switch inside the car like Mike mentioned then you could do the toggle switch/solenoid deal also. Battery cable going from battery to master switch, short jumper going from master switch to solenoid, power to everything else on other solenoid terminal.

[Jitterbugdude]

And what is the fire hazard with just wiring a toggle switch to the coil wire? As far as I can tell, when you flip the switch it will kill the engine.. no running engine.. no oil pressure... no fuel pump. Am i missing something here??
Randy B

[Astre-mutt]

Randy, when I was a firemen in the Navy, half of all fires on ship where electrical fires. I hadn't thought about a safety switch until now. I found the one from Painless wiring for someone else. But now I'm thinking it mite be the way to go. I like the idea of being able to kill the all the electrical system in a panic situation. Also I think if you hook the switch up so it's facing forward, it would shut down in a head on collision.