by spencerforhire » Mon May 19, 2008 8:12 am
The chassis of a uni-body car(even without a roll cage) can handle more current flow than even a large cable. A rear mounted battery should be grounded to the nearest convenient point, preferably where the metal is more than one layer, like a pinch-weld or reinforced spot(like a roll bar mounting pad or suspension point).This spot needs to be free of rust and paint, and a nut and bolt(with a star washer) is better than a self tapping screw. Same thing applies for the engine end of the circuit. Obviously, on a full or sub framed car, all three need to be grounded- engine, body AND frame.
All this being said, I do like astre-mutt's ground point on the firewall- what a convenient place to hook up a test or timing light. To go a step further, there could be a 12v+ one beside it( with a plastic or rubber bushing to isolate it where it goes through the sheet metal). These are often seen on the back of race cars as a spot to hook up the battery charger.
The "fleet"-
72 Vega HB Drag Car -383/'Glide/9"(9.35@146.19)(5.94@117.28 1/8th)
77 Vega Estate wagon- project(someday)will have TPI305/T-5, S-10 spindles/axles
76 Vega GT- 400/4spd/9" retired from active duty(rusty)
06 Silverado 2WD ex.cab daily
03 Silverado 2WD ex.cab (retired)
06 Haulin' 20ft enclosed car transporter
06 GMC Canyon Shop truck
07 Colorado project( 5.3 4L60e swap)
99 Saturn SL1- wife's car
01 Saturn SC2- son's project
07 Saturn Ion Redline project
and 4 more Saturn "parts cars"
Note- the very act of listing all of these has made me realize I have some kind of problem.....
Visit http://www.spencerforhire.ca