Wiring my engine

[ColinOpseth]

Hey,
OK, so I went through my stock harness and found some interesting things. For example, my car was already converted to the one-wire style of alternator. I'm using a CS130 now so I have a bit of work to do on that end (due to a different style plug than the SI style plug that's on there now). Here's my problem...

My alternator harness has a total of three wires coming out of the SI-style plug. Two of them join together into one wire, and that wire has a ring connector on the end. The third wire is connected to the horn relay. All three wires look to be pretty large gauge...maybe 10 gauge or so.

Another one of the wires coming off the horn relay is very long and has a ring connector on the end.

I do not have a wire that comes from the starter solenoid to my coil. I do have the pink resistor wire that comes from the firewall, though. Is that sufficient? I thought that two wires went to the coil. One that sends a full 12v when you turn on the key and energize the starter (to charge the points) and one from the firewall that is a lower voltage (7 or so) so the points aren't burned.

I show on my wiring diagram that three wires connect to my starter solenoid. A yellow (which I don't have) that connects to the coil. A brown that connects to a second terminal and a large gauge purple. Thus, I only have a 12g purple, one brown, and two large ring-terminal red ones. I'm assuming that both ring terminal wires (from the horn relay and alternator) go to the bat(+) terminal on the solenoid and the brown and purple connect together on the switch?

I hope this makes sense. This is how I've wrapped my mind around it. The CS130/SI series of alternators are much higher output than the old units from the factory. Whoever converted my car to a V8 understood that the alternator could fry the stock wiring. Thus, they doubled up the wires to deal with the voltage. Am I off-base?

Thanks for the help. I appreciate it. If I can get this sorted out my car should be running permanently this week.

Thanks,
Colin

[72 SS PNL]

I do not have a wire that comes from the starter solenoid to my coil. I do have the pink resistor wire that comes from the firewall, though. Is that sufficient? I thought that two wires went to the coil. One that sends a full 12v when you turn on the key and energize the starter (to charge the points) and one from the firewall that is a lower voltage (7 or so) so the points aren't burned.

only need the 1 wire for a electric ign system , the old by-pass wire was probably removed as part of the V8 swap , if you still have the resistance wire and not a regular wire , i would replace it with a regular wire for use with your new set up

I show on my wiring diagram that three wires connect to my starter solenoid. A yellow (which I don't have) that connects to the coil. A brown that connects to a second terminal and a large gauge purple. Thus, I only have a 12g purple, one brown, and two large ring-terminal red ones. I'm assuming that both ring terminal wires (from the horn relay and alternator) go to the bat(+) terminal on the solenoid and the brown and purple connect together on the switch?

that sounds right

[ColinOpseth]

Do I still need to run a new wire in place of the resistor wire if I'm going to be running points? I want to keep it simple initially, and put the fuel injection on after I get some other bugs sorted out (like interior, lol). I have an HEI distributor but like the simplicity of points. I use the single piece setup and have never had a problem with them.

[spencerforhire]

Don't bother with the points; there's nothing that exemplifies "simplicity" more than the trusty HEI!

[cjbiagi]

I agree, it's hard to get simpler than a HEI. It's all self contained and is very reliable as long as you use quality parts.

[ColinOpseth]

Well, I already have a brand new points distributor and I don't have an HEI one. I won't be running the car with points for more than a few months. I'd run the LT1 with fuel injection but my intake elbow won't clear my radiator. So that means I can either cut my car up to move the radiator forward or buy another radiator.

[72 SS PNL]

Do I still need to run a new wire in place of the resistor wire if I'm going to be running points? I want to keep it simple initially, and put the fuel injection on after I get some other bugs sorted out (like interior, lol). I have an HEI distributor but like the simplicity of points. I use the single piece setup and have never had a problem with them.

in that case , either leave the resistance wire , or plan now for the electronic , and use a chrysler style resistor on the firewall

also you will need to run the jumper wire from the solenoid to the coil , for the start cycle so it starts up easier

you cant cut the elbow down some to gain some room ?

[ColinOpseth]

Thanks for the help. I'll use a jumper from the coil to the starter. I won't be going electronic, as my LT1 uses the Optispark and has its own power supply from the harness.

I wish I could cut my elbow down. Unfortunately, it's cast aluminum and the diameter of the pipe changes immediately after the bend at the throttle body. I can use a rubber elbow because it'll chaff on the radiator. I may drag up an old V8 Monza radiator I have and see how it fits. My LT1 is reverse-cooled, has aluminum heads, and is a manual transmission so it shouldn't run as hot as a standard SBC, anyway.

[72 SS PNL]

maybe try the rubber bend , see if trimming it will work for now , or maybe is it possible to cut the elbow you have , or notch it to gain a little clearance with the radiator ? have you thought about going to speed density tune ? and loose the MAF

but either way kinda sounds like the radiator is gonna need to move forward some

[ColinOpseth]

I'm not using a MAF. My engine is a 93 LT1 so it's the same as OBD-I Tuned Port Injection. I can buy an intake filter for my application that won't require an elbow. It's made by Street and Performance but it's over $150. I may end up going that route, though. I was told today that my radiator will fit with a few mods and that will drop it low enough. Thing is, I still have to have it modified anyway. My alternator is less than 1/2" from the lower radiator outlet.

I've put in a call to Griffin. They said they have a solution. I'm crossing my fingers. They said they should have an outlet they can mail to me that I can have welded onto my radiator in place of the stock one. If my radiator is notched on the bottom on both sides it will clear my frame and can easily be lowered enough to use the intake elbow. That's a much better solution, because I have the ability to then run a cold air intake from up behind the headlight. The S&P solution will lock me into a situation in which I'll have to suck in hot air from behind the rad. Not good on an engine that already is prone to detonation.

[72 SS PNL]

i agree with ya there , ive gotta take that little stupid filter off on my 29 model a with a 92 tuned port motor , though ive gotta make a snakes worth of tubing to get the filter away from the air from the radiator

[ColinOpseth]

Well, I bought the TPI cone filter: K&N RC-5000. It was $40...and it hits my water pump. I'll be taking that back to Autozone. I hope they don't charge a restock fee on a special order part. I said screw it and put my carb back on. It's already torqued and ready to go.