best starter period!

[partouz]

I've got a 350 with the hooker headers # 2135. I installed a mini starter from CVR the number is 53230S. Anyway, my initial timing is 16 and I just realize when hot it's just feel like and a weak starter. I still need that 16 degree and I know I can juggle around, but I'm wondering If some of you guys knows the best overkill mini starter you can put for this setup. I use the starter wrapping and the headers wrapping to put all my chance to preserve the starter there's just one pipe who's got no clearance. It's almost touching the starter.

If someone's got a model and part number to go for and to avoid it will be nice to share.

Thank in advance!

Kevin

[cjbiagi]

I have one like this http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/New-Hi-T ... 3a4c855267 I like this style because it supports the gear on both ends rather than just having the gear stick out with no outboard support. I have this on my 355 Monza with Hooker 2135's and kicks it over great hot or cold.

[monzajer]

Kevin, it sounds like you may be suffering from a heat soaked starter. I am sure you realize this that is why you mentioned the "wraps". Even after changing the started to something "...overkill.." you may still encounter some problem, over a period of time. There are two alternatives that may be something to consider.

1) you can use a remote solenoid. I know I may get my 'nads cut off for this, but...using a Ford type solenoid can make a big difference. Like this one: http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Remote-St ... ,2365.html

2)using a potentiometer to dial down initial timing, from inside the car, and then return it to the desired timing, might be of help.

I hope that which ever choice you decide cures the aggravating problem.

cheers jer

[cjbiagi]

The other thing I did was have some new custom battery cables made. Had them made in 2 gauge with factory molded ends on them. That helped carry the high current demand from the starter even when things get hot. I run 14 degrees of timing and have absolutely no problem starting any more. I don't even have any heat shield around the starter like I did with my old factory one.

[chevy art]

hey monzajer i swear by the method you mentioned about using the ford solenoid. on my race car and going on my vega. 2 chevies with FORD solenoids art

[megavega]

Another thing to remember is to set the starter pinion to flywheel clearance up correctly,a starter that gets warm will tighten up the gear tip to flywheel valley clearance, so they can spin good cold and drag when warm if incorrect. You need a good .035" betweeen the tip of the pinion and the valley of the flywheel. A simple paper clip provides a good tool to set up, shim the starter on block as needed to get the clearance,this needs to be done ANYTIME you change the starter if you want it to perform as it should and get long life from it.

[cjbiagi]

Excellent point that I forgot to mention, checking the clearance is indeed critical. I had to shim mine quite a bit, I don't think it would have even engaged without shimming. It would have been way too tight. Take your time and get it shimmed correctly with a paperclip or bent wire as mentioned.

[Rickracer]

Wrapping a starter is counter productive, wraps retain heat, which is NOT what you want, since the starter also makes heat on it's own. I really don't like it for headers either, it KILLS them, retaining moisture as well as too much heat. Ceramic coating inside and out is the best way to block radiated heat from a header, because it doesn't overheat the metal. Some sort of stainless or aluminum shield would be a better way to isolate the starter from heat. The Ford style solenoid is a great tactic to get full cranking voltage to the starter under all conditions. And if you're using an MSD ignition system, the MSD timing retard box can really help with cranking issues as well.

[my79monza]

I intend to use the Ford Solenoid because then i can bring the fusible links to it.
The starter cable will be the only wiring to the starter.
I'm not a Ford man but they did do it right with their starter wiring, however the cable wouldn't stay tight on the starter usually .

merle

[HI WINDING MONZA]

Any aftermarket mini starter that uses steel gears. Make sure you check cause some use plastic gears/ parts.

Powermaster XS ones are good, dont know if they will fit our cars though.

http://www.powermastermotorsports.com/2 ... rters.html

Doug in Az

[cjbiagi]

I still like the GM style with the nose that holds the outboard end of the gear. Seems like a better design to me. Maybe it doesn't matter, but it just seems to hold the shaft and gear in a more positive manner.

GM style.gif

[Rickracer]

Some of those have some plastic gears in them CJ, may not be a deal breaker, but good to know, or check, just in case.

[cjbiagi]

Mine were steel but that's a good thing to know and ask before purchasing.

[chevy art]

damn plastic gears? what will they do to us next art

[starfire383]

I have tiltons from 4 to 20 years old. Every other aftermarket mini I've tried has eventually fried or otherwise had stupid things happen that limited their life to under 2 years.

Tiltons are pricey. Best bang for your buck is a quality rebuilt GM ministarter, they type used on 350 trucks and vans 88-94. Far superior to most "racing" starters, and can be bought brand new on ebay for $60. But if you gotta go ultimate, tilton.

Briggs and stratton lawn tractor engines have used a plastic starter gear for years. They stock about 4 B&S parts at lowe's. Guess what one of em is

good luck