rather than dredge up an old post..........

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Re: rather than dredge up an old post..........

Postby rtm » Wed Apr 03, 2013 8:43 pm

spencerforhire wrote:You can use the one wire alternator; use the other 2 terminals of the battery switch to interrupt ignition power to the distributor or ignition box instead .




no ign. box (yet)
I'd like to keep my dash light functioning
but, if need be, I'll use that distributor trick.
thanx 4 that spence
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1976 Chevrolet Monza Towne Coupe


Re: rather than dredge up an old post..........

Postby rtm » Fri Apr 05, 2013 9:25 am

drove car with all accys. on
alternator output down to 13v.
probably not charging properly w/everything on.
can the low voltage damage my fuel pump ?
it has it's own relay.
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Re: rather than dredge up an old post..........

Postby spencerforhire » Fri Apr 05, 2013 1:53 pm

13v at idle is OK as long as it comes up with the revs; if it's not up to full(14.2-14.8v)by the time you get to 2000 or 2500rpm, you have a problem. At 13v the battery will never fully charge, but as far as "hurting" the fuel pump goes, 13 is not a problem. You need to measure the voltage above idle at both the back of the alternator and at the battery; there shouldn't be any more than a couple of tenths of a volt drop.
The "fleet"-
72 Vega HB Drag Car -383/'Glide/9"(9.35@146.19)(5.94@117.28 1/8th)
77 Vega Estate wagon- project(someday)will have TPI305/T-5, S-10 spindles/axles
76 Vega GT- 400/4spd/9" retired from active duty(rusty)
06 Silverado 2WD ex.cab daily
03 Silverado 2WD ex.cab (retired)
06 Haulin' 20ft enclosed car transporter
06 GMC Canyon Shop truck
07 Colorado project( 5.3 4L60e swap)
99 Saturn SL1- wife's car
01 Saturn SC2- son's project
07 Saturn Ion Redline project
and 4 more Saturn "parts cars"
Note- the very act of listing all of these has made me realize I have some kind of problem.....

Visit http://www.spencerforhire.ca
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Re: rather than dredge up an old post..........

Postby rtm » Sat Apr 06, 2013 8:07 pm

thanx 4 reply spence.
had no internet for awhile.
cable company charges me a fortune for it.
and it's been random lately
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1976 Chevrolet Monza Towne Coupe

Re: rather than dredge up an old post..........

Postby firebird77clone » Sun May 05, 2013 7:20 pm

You need a volts guage.

Idiot light indicates a problem, but doesn't identify the problem.
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Re: rather than dredge up an old post..........

Postby seekerbeta » Tue May 07, 2013 11:53 am

i never though about wiring the kill switch to the ignition, i dont know how well that would work for people with high compression motors, my old 350 had the ability to continue to operate on compression fire alone with the ignition box.


http://www.mydigitalpublication.com/pub ... /?i=136499


Image



NHRA

8:1 BATTERIES
All batteries must be securely mounted; must be of sufficient
capacity to start vehicle at any time. Batteries may not be relocated
into the driver or passenger compartments. Rear firewall of .024-
inch steel or .032-inch aluminum (including package tray) required
when battery is relocated in trunk. In lieu of rear firewall, battery
may be located in a sealed .024-inch steel, .032-inch aluminum, or
NHRA-accepted poly box. If sealed box is used in lieu of rear
firewall, box may not be used to secure battery and must be vented
outside of body. Relocated battery(s) must be fastened to frame or
frame structure with a minimum of two 3/8-inch-diameter bolts.
OEM located batteries without complete OEM hold-down hardware
must be secured to OEM battery box/tray using the same 3/8-inchdiameter bolt hold-down method described in previous sentence.
(“J” hooks prohibited or must have open end welded shut.) Metal
battery hold-down straps mandatory. Strapping tape prohibited. A
maximum of two automobile batteries, or 150 pounds combined
maximum weight (unless otherwise specified in Class
Requirements), is permitted. Maximums may vary according to
Class Requirements.
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Re: rather than dredge up an old post..........

Postby seekerbeta » Tue May 07, 2013 11:55 am

i never though about wiring the kill switch to the ignition, i dont know how well that would work for people with high compression motors, my old 350 had the ability to continue to operate on compression fire alone with the ignition box.


http://www.mydigitalpublication.com/pub ... /?i=136499


Image



NHRA

8:4 MASTER CUTOFF
Mandatory when battery is relocated, or as outlined in Class
Requirements. An electrical power cutoff switch (one only) must be
installed on the rearmost part of each vehicle and be easily
accessible from outside the car body. This cutoff switch must be
connected to the positive side of the electrical system and must
stop all electrical functions including magneto ignition. The off
position must be clearly indicated with the word “OFF.” If switch is
“push/pull” type, “push” must be the action for shutting off the
electrical system, “pull” to turn it on. Any rods or cables used to
activate the switch must be minimum 1/8-inch diameter. Plastic or
keyed switches prohibited. Switches and/or controls must be
located behind rear wheels on rear-engine dragsters.
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Re: rather than dredge up an old post..........

Postby chevyart » Wed May 15, 2013 10:06 am

i remember when i was building my race car in early 90s i hooked up the kill switch like nhra rules require( switch to positive side) and my engine builders father who ran the hot rod shop and had been building race cars since the 50s said that that was really not the best way, that it(switch) should be hooked to the negative side, like they do in nascar. i could swear this is what he said back then. any input on this. this just comes to my mind from this post and discussion. art
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Re: rather than dredge up an old post..........

Postby rtm » Thu May 16, 2013 8:00 pm

gotta post progress,
got a factory GM starter.
it is lighter than the starter I had
not sure of part #
staggered bolt pattern for 168 tooth flywheel
car seems to start fine.
replaced the summit brand P.O.S. "HIGH TORQUE" :rolleyes: starter.
never liked that unit from day 1.
still haven't driven at night , but plan to, tomorrow night.
the Mc'donald's in the next town over has a cruise night every friday.
will be my first night out.
will be the only towne coupe in attendance, and I still have no factory emblems.
(other than the 4.3 liter V8 )
curious to see if anyone knows what they're looking at :lol:
hope no one calls it a mazda, (happens alot) :evil:
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Re: rather than dredge up an old post..........

Postby chevyart » Fri May 17, 2013 12:29 am

rick let me know when you go to one of the friday night cruises at mcdonalds. i could take a ride up there and check you guys out art
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