by spencerforhire » Tue Dec 01, 2015 7:31 am
A healthy battery can handle sitting for months without going dead, even with the tiny amount of current consume by the clock. So if your battery is going dead, you've got something else creating a draw in your car. I'm not really a big fan of battery shut off switches, unless mandated by the rulebook for a race car. I've seen the ones with the green knob fail both ways; open and closed. If you use the car with them a bit loose, they can create enough heat to melt the plastic insulator, then lose connection all together. If you repeatedly turn them on and off(like every day), especially if you tighten them too hard(like with pliers!), the insulator can get cut and they no longer disconnect. Not sure why I even posted the pic of one; I think they cause more problems than they solve.
If you have a rear mounted battery, a proper competition style shut off switch is the answer-
http://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/tay-1033
The "fleet"-
72 Vega HB Drag Car -383/'Glide/9"(9.35@146.19)(5.94@117.28 1/8th)
77 Vega Estate wagon- project(someday)will have TPI305/T-5, S-10 spindles/axles
76 Vega GT- 400/4spd/9" retired from active duty(rusty)
06 Silverado 2WD ex.cab daily
03 Silverado 2WD ex.cab (retired)
06 Haulin' 20ft enclosed car transporter
06 GMC Canyon Shop truck
07 Colorado project( 5.3 4L60e swap)
99 Saturn SL1- wife's car
01 Saturn SC2- son's project
07 Saturn Ion Redline project
and 4 more Saturn "parts cars"
Note- the very act of listing all of these has made me realize I have some kind of problem.....
Visit http://www.spencerforhire.ca