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Thinking of using this switch which will work with a negative BAT terminal to post conversion. It would keep the clock and anything else from running down the battery. It is aluminum. Anybody have any experience with one of these? See any obvious problems for street use?




Thanks,
Larry

Are you using a sidepost battery and cables ?

The set screw to tighten the aluminum one to the post is not optimal.
They have these at Walmart for $5 or so usually.

It would probably work, but really should be on the positive post, not the negative. It looks like it actually might be designed to take an ANL fuse in place of the flat strip. Hard to say if it's sized to fit the negative or positive.
These are under $10 and can be found at just about any auto parts store.
http://images11.palcdn.com/hlr-system/W ... 110847a5a6
Edit- Smiley beat me to it. lol

It's in but wish there was a better solution. Never knew about an ANL fuse.

Thanks,
Larry

On a sidepost you are better off unscrewing the cables.

A healthy battery can handle sitting for months without going dead, even with the tiny amount of current consume by the clock. So if your battery is going dead, you've got something else creating a draw in your car. I'm not really a big fan of battery shut off switches, unless mandated by the rulebook for a race car. I've seen the ones with the green knob fail both ways; open and closed. If you use the car with them a bit loose, they can create enough heat to melt the plastic insulator, then lose connection all together. If you repeatedly turn them on and off(like every day), especially if you tighten them too hard(like with pliers!), the insulator can get cut and they no longer disconnect. Not sure why I even posted the pic of one; I think they cause more problems than they solve.
If you have a rear mounted battery, a proper competition style shut off switch is the answer-
http://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/tay-1033

Get yourself a good switch from Watson street works. It can be hidden and will also act as a theft deterant. It's a togle switch that controls a solenoid. Cost is about $100. It's worth it.

I've seen those remote switched solenoid master shut offs, mostly in street rods with no way to lock the doors. I even installed one that had wireless remotes; the vehicle is completely dead until you push the button on the remote. It did come with an over-ride switch in case of a lost or damaged remote.