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Ok probably a real dumb question ,but better safe than sorry.
I am trying to finish a build that someone else started and running into some issues and thought I would ask before burning something up.
The car runs right now ,but my tach isn't working which I believe is wired into the msd 6all box?
I am trying to wire my Mallory unilite distributor to my msd 6al box.
Right now I have a wire from the ignition switch to coil and wire to unilite from other side of coil.
There is only one wire coming from the distributor( the one going to the coil)
I have the msd wired up to battery power on the large red and black.I have a small red and small white that are not hooked up.
Also the ones that look like they should go to the coil are not hooked up.
Do I leave the wires I have hooked to the coil now the same and just hook up the ones from the msd one as well?
Any help would be appreciated.
Also the nitrous switch is wired but does it mount to carb for wot? Where does it go if so?
Thanks again

The only wires that go to the coil are the orange(+) and black(-). The small red is the ignition sense; it would go to whatever wire you took off the + terminal of the coil. The white is the trigger input and goes to the single wire from the distributor. There is a male spade terminal on one end the MSD box that is the tach output. All you should have left over is the purple/green pair that would go to a dedicated MSD dizzy or crank trigger.

Forgot to mention the switch; it is usually mounted to one of the carburetor to intake bolts. You might have to adjust/bend/re-engineer the bracket to make it fit.

Awesome thanks.I'm hoping to take this thing to the track next weekend.
So the switch needs to be pushed when I'm at wot correct?

Yes. Introducing N2o into an engine at less than full throttle usually ends badly. KABOOM!

monzilla wrote:Also the nitrous switch is wired but does it mount to carb for wot? Where does it go if so?
Thanks again

Which nitrous switch are you talking about? I have a master arm toggle switch that is on my dash. (Also purge and bottle heater) There is a wot microswitch mounted on carb. Then I also have a fuel pressure safety switch that will kill nitrous if it drops to unsafe level. I also have it wired through a seperate relay to my transbrake switch so I can be at full throttle on the brake at the light to get up to stall speed but the nitrous won't kick in until I release brake button.

Good idea to have the low fuel pressure and trans brake lockouts on the N2o. You can never be too careful. A good friend of mine had me install some spray on his mid 9 sec SBC Camaro. We argued at length about a WOT switch. He didn't think it was necessary. I told him "no switch, no install".