help w/ stall speed

[rtm]

thanx clyde,
just seeing that catalog leads me to believe that they might be a legitimate source of aftermarket parts.
and the price is about $100 less than anything equivalent elsewhere, if I include shipping /handling costs.
still looking, but , so far, I can't beat their price.

[rtm]

https://deezperformance.com/transmissio ... rters.html

these guys will beat the previous price by at least $50.00
same converter/manufacturer
pays to shop around

[chevyart]

rick you still dont know what these converters will do in your specific car and drive train. i still think you should have one made up. if you have a decent 10 inch converter to start with, perhaps you could have that made up for your specific car. probably will be well spent money, otherwise you may be right back out there buying another if the first one is not right. good luck art a little more

[rtm]

I hear ya art, I'll at least make a phone call to the tech guys at BIG END before I spend any money.
as far as having one made? probably beyond my monetary means at this time.

[spencerforhire]

I'm sure the tech guys will be able to tell you what you need to know if you inform them all about your combination; at least you have horsepower and torque numbers for your engine. A lot of wrong torque converter selections result from unrealistic estimates of power & torque curves.

[Fasterthansome]

The manufacturer is "Big End". I have seen a lot of their parts in some catalogs, don't know much about them though. Here's a link to their site http://www.vsihp.com/catalogs2.php?catid=bigend Converters are on page 25

The Manufacturer is Transmisson specialties the same that makes the Jegs line of converters. VSI is a warehouse distributor out of Indiana that uses "BIG END" name as there re-branded "HOUSE" brand similar to "ALLSTAR" brand being Lane automotives House brand. http://www.vsihp.com/product.php

I suggested the XHD from jegs because it has front and rear anti balooning plates etc and for the $ is a good product for performance app. If your looking for the best price on the lower line I would still look at the JEGS brand lower line.

My reasoning is even if its a few $$ more than the BIG END re-branded converter or the other company that happened to have the chaeapest one found when searching online JEGS has a great return policy.

If you install it and are not happy with the actual Stall you can return it and try another one, just say it stalled alot higher or lower than advertised. Sometimes a few dollars up front is well worth the $$.

[Fasterthansome]

https://deezperformance.com/transmission-clutch/big-end-high-performance-torque-converters.html

these guys will beat the previous price by at least $50.00
same converter/manufacturer
pays to shop around

This would be the same product for the same price.

http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS-Performance- ... oreDetails

http://www.jegs.com/p/JEGS-Performance- ... 3/10002/-1

[rtm]

fasterthansome wrote;


This would be the same product for the same price.

http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS-Performance- ... oreDetails

http://www.jegs.com/p/JEGS-Performance- ... 3/10002/-1


thanx for doing my homework for me,
I suppose I shouldn't cheap out either,
If you think I might need those anti-ballooning plates,
probably worth the x-tra $$
I just didn't think I was making enough power to need an extra heavy duty converter.
the chart in your link has me backstepping a little bit

I was using this as a guideline,(from another site)

Here are some general guidelines for selecting a converter:

According to B&M, the stall speed should be rated at about 500-750 RPM under your engine's peak torque RPM. If you don't know this figure, be conservative in your estimate. You don't want to end up with a converter that has too high of a stall speed. Don't be too conservative, though - it is possible to get a converter with too low of a stall speed, which will have roughly the same effect as too high of a stall speed.

Know your camshaft specifications. If your cam has less than 220 degrees duration (@ 0.050" lift), which most street machines do, you make most of your torque down low in the RPM range, and you probably won't need more than a 2500 RPM stall speed, if even that much.

Have a good idea of your vehicle's weight. Remember, lighter vehicles will lower the rated stall speed; heavier vehicles will have the opposite effect.




if my max torque is at 4600 rpm (on the dyno), I would want a stall speed of around 3800 rpm ?
seems high, doesn't it?

[Fasterthansome]

Do you have a dyno sheet ? I dont see why you would need anti balloon plates at this point. If you dont have the extra funds available its not cheaping out, its working with what you have. It wouldnt hurt anything to have them though other than the wallet.

This is from Lenny at Ultimate converters.

Stall Speed is commonly referred to as the RPM speed at which the converter will hold back or limit the engine when the automotive transmission is prohibited. By not allowing the engine further RPM gain, the increase in engine RPM “stalls” or in other words, ceases to increase. The important thing to remember is that “stall” speed is a direct relationship between the engine’s ability to produce power and the torque converter’s ability to hold the RPM back.
Changes to either the engine’s power output and/or the converter will change the balance and in turn will change the “stall” speed. The RPM at which stall occurs within a converter is a function of engine peak torque. This is why the same high stall converter will not “stall” the same when interchanged between two different engines, producing vastly different power outputs.

When referring to "how much stall will I get from this torque converter", it means how fast (RPM) must the torque converter spin to generate enough fluid force on the turbine to overcome the resting inertia of the vehicle at wide open throttle.

The primary thing to remember about torque converter stall speed is that a particular torque converter does not have a "preset from the factory" stall speed but rather its unique design will produce a certain range of stall speeds depending on the amount of load the torque converter is exposed to. This load comes from both, the torque produced by the engine and the resistance of the vehicle to move from rest. For best drag strip results use a converter that stalls close to peak torque. Some people advocate a bit above, others a bit below peak torque RPM. Again, close cooperation with the converter manufacturer is the best approach.

[rtm]

406 SBC
ALUMINUM EDELBROCK PERFORMER RPM HEADS
1.6 ROLLER ROCKERS (CHEAPO SUMMIT)

"MAX TORQUE:516 FT. LB @ 4600 R.P.M.
MAX. H.P. 489 @5400 R.P.M."

WEIGHT: FULLY LOADED (INTERIOR) MONZA COUPE ?? 3000 LBS. + ?
CAM SPECS:COMP XE 284H-10
GROSS LIFT= INT. 540 EXH. 544
DURATION @.050 INT. 240 EXH. 246
STREET /STRIP CAR (LEANING MORE TOWARDS STREET, BUT I WANT IT TO LAUNCH HARD) 4:10 12 BOLT REAR (IMPALA, NARROWED) MOSER 30 SPLINE AXLES
235/60/15 MICKEY THOMPSON DRAG RADIAL
LADDER BAR CAR

best dyno pull info posted here (engine dyno , so numbers are @ flywheel)

[spencerforhire]

I agree with fasterthansome that you probably don't need the anti-balloon plates; yours is not a race only vehicle and you didn't mention a trans-brake which is absolute torture on torque converters.

[rtm]

yep no trans brake here,
however, I found myself having the bigger (or higher in this case ) is better mentality, until I read a little more on the subject.
and you guys are right, "what will the car be used for?" occasional street, very little strip, use.


after reading this; (from jegs I think)

Common Torque Converter Questions and Answers

1. How Do I choose the converter stall speed that is right for my application?
Answer: Advertised stall speed will need to be at least 500 RPM higher than the beginning of the powerband of your camshaft. All aftermarket camshafts are supplied with a cam card that states RPM range. If your camshaft states an RPM range of 1500-6500, for example, you would want to select a torque with a minimum of 2,000 RPM stall. For a street car it is wise to also select a torque converter stall speed that is below the engine RPM at 65 MPH to prevent excessive heat build up. The exception would be a transmission/converter equipped with lock-up.

my cam's RPM range ; 2300-6500 RPM

@ 65 MPH- 3000 RPM? (guessing because the stock speedo is not even CLOSE to accurate)
that makes the 3500 to 3800 RPM converter a poor choice.
however, not being a daily driver, can I safely manage to use a 3200-3500 RPM range
I have an auxilary cooler, with a dedicated fan, mounted(strangely enough) where the fuel tank used to be.
I currently have B&M trickshift fluid in the trans.
I DO NOT have a transmission temperature guage.(might be a good investment with the new converter)

If I "power brake" the car right now, It becomes a BEAST as the RPM's increase (quickly I might add)
however, launching from a dead stop by simply "flooring" it, produces rather lackluster results.
as art said the converter is "dragging me through stop lights" at idle.
BTW
I'm stuck inside with a back/neck injury today, so I felt like typing .
sorry for the long response.
thanx for reading , and for all your replies

rick the mason

[Fasterthansome]

I would get something rated in the 3500- area. If you can get a true upper 3k flash stall it will run nice and not drop too low on the shifts and keep you in the power better.

Also those cam power range specs dont really mean anything in the real world. Look at what your dyno sheet shows from 35-3800- until you let off or shift.

Can you post a dyno pull sheet?

[waybad]

my 2 cents on how a converter works
lower gears(3.73-5.13 ect) = less stall
higher gears( 2.54-3.55) = more stall
more torque = more stall
heavy car = more stall
light car = less stall
lower 1st = less stall
put your car in high gear and cruise about 15 mph and floor it,, if it will stay in high gear, watch
your tach and that is close to your flash stall..add all this up and get yourself close
hope this helps..
also a converter built for boost or nos will have a tighter stall for the equal size of non power adder converter....
just my 2 cents..

[chevyart]

rick everyone is on track with the info you should know about converters and selecting one. a few of the guys mentioned the companies that make them for jegs and summit. cal them and speak to their tech rep and give them your info and they will tell you exactly which one to order from one of the big discount houses that they supply good luck art