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Looking to replace the clutch in my '73 that has a small block 327 using a don Hardy kit. Does anyone have experiences removing the trans from a car with these mounts? Any challenges or tips compared to the stock instructions?


Thanks,
Larry

Remove the distributor cap so it is not damaged if the motor tilts too far down.
Use a floor jack or bottle jack and a piece of wood to support the bottom of the oil pan while the trans crossmember is out.
Once the trans is out lower the oil pan a bit to access the bellhousing bolts.
On those I use a 3/8" drive 6 point 9/16" ball type swivel impact socket with a long extension.
Hardy kits use stock type 1960's truck rubber motor mounts which can now be had in urethane.
You may want to check the integrity of the mounts as the rubber tends to crack and separate from the metal.

Thanks for the useful information. I am waiting on the weather to warm up as this will be an outside job. I was hoping to avoid having to remove the exhaust. Are the mounts available from PST? Hoping to go aboit 16" high with jack stands behind the front wheels and on front of the rear wheels below the rocker.

Larry

Use the 12 ton jack stands and do not put them under the rockers. There is a thick pad under the floor behind the rockers for supporting the car.

I know Prothane and Energy Suspension make them, later being a little cheaper.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Motor-Mount-Energy-Suspension-3-1156-3-1156-ENE-3-1156G-ENE-3-1156R-ENS-3-1156G-/151356390156?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item233d8b3b0c&vxp=mtr

The thick pads Smiley is suggesting have an elongated slot in each of them, two behind the front fender well and two near the rear lower control arm where it mounts to the chassis. The slots were used to attach tie-downs when being shipped.

Dick

Just need to add about 60 degrees to the temperature and I will be ready


Thanks,
Larry

Finally up on ramps and stands and another question:

What is the best place to disconnect the (hurst?) shifter?

more pics and questions coming...



Thanks,
Larry

If it is a Muncie or Saginaw transmission, I would see if it has a Bolt on shifter lever (usually an aftermarket Hurst Shifter), if so just unbolt the lever and know assembly (2 bolts) and leave the shifter with the transmission. If it has the stock non bolted shifter arm I would remove the linkage from the transmission shifter levers, Leave the levers on the transmission and unbolt the shifter bracket from the trans so non of the adjustments are changed. But now would be the perfect time to readjust the shifter linkage when reinstalling it.

Some "progress" today.

Cammerjeff, your advice was perfect. Removed the two bolts from the Hurst and was able to get the trans out without removing the linkage.


Was unable to remove the clutch cable from the clutch fork even after I removed the barrel on the end. I thought the manual said there was a slot in the fork. Any suggestions on how to remove?



Some pics of the removed parts. I'm thinking the clutch was adjusted wrong because there is still disc left and wear was even.. Turn flywheel and replace other parts? Comments and suggestions welcomed.





Thanks,
Larry

Once you remove the barrell nut there should be nothing stopping you from removing the cable. Hard to see in your pic but it looks like something was added to the end of your cable. Whatever that is needs to be removed. It may be threaded on and need to be unscrewed, whatever it is does not need to be there.
So you were able to slide the trans back far enough and not have the shifter hit the trans tunnel? Wow, I looked at mine and thought i would not be able to slide it back without hitting the tunnel. It would have saved a lot of work if I could have done it like you.

Great advice Clyde. It looks like it is a piece of brake line, perhaps to act as a buffer/spacer? It was binding and just needed to be pulled off. Now I can clean and repaint the bellhousing.

I also thought I would have to remove the shifter. Even started to loosen one bolt on the Competition Plus. I saw in the tunnel where it had scraped against the side (and CammerJeff said it could be done). Tried it and it worked! I do not think the tunnel had been hammered. Saved alot of headache there.

Questions:
A new flywheel was close to the price of resurfacing. Any advantage to either new or resurface?
The front bearing on the trans has some wiggle. I could not source one locally. Any ideas?

Thanks,
Larry

That extra piece on the cable may have been there because the cable was still loose when the barrel nut was as tight as it would go. The previous owner probably wasn't aware of the pivot adjusting bolt on the right side of the bell.

Dick

It is normal for the input shaft to have a small amount of wiggle. When it slides into the pilot bearing in the crankshaft then it is held steady. It is easy to change the front bearing if needed but the little bit of wiggle you are probably seeing is normal. This allows for the input shaft to self center when you slide the trans all the way in.

Looks like you may have had some overheating on that flywheel. Resurfacing may be fine but if a new one is about the same price then that may be the way to go. There are different qualities and weights to flywheels though, so make sure you are getting what you want. Resurfacing is generally pretty inexpensive, what kind of flywheel are you looking at that is that cheap? I used a Hays Billet steel one which is close to $300. Others are made from nodular iron which are less expensive. Here's a article on the difference, I am sure if you google it you will come up with more. I think the main advantage is safety, a steel one is less likely to explode.

http://www.chevelles.com/forums/showthread.php?t=382224

The flywheel is a Precision. Yes, any steel flywheel would be better. Great link.



Any help on installing and adjusting the fork would be appreciated. Does the bolt have a nut on the inside and one on the outside? What is the 3rd nut for? Does the throw out bearing just sit between the two posts?



Thanks!
Larry