Clutch pedal bending

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Clutch pedal bending

Postby jaloi » Tue Jun 28, 2016 11:38 am

The clutch pedal in my Vega keeps bending to the left because the linkage to the bellcrank is offset so much to the right from the centerline of the pedal.Can't go to hydraulic because it will be too close to the rear tube on the header.(Have the Hooker Super Comps and it's already causing the brake master cylinder to weep fluid from the heat,and the clutch master cylinder would be even closer on a hydraulic)Has anyine tried hardening a clutch pedal or is there some other solution? Other than going to an auto trans that is...
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Re: Clutch pedal bending

Postby cjbiagi » Tue Jun 28, 2016 12:54 pm

Are you running some type of mechanical clutch linkage or do you still have a clutch cable? Trying to picture where it is bending at. If you are still using a cable setup it sounds like you must really have a stiff pedal? This can be caused by a bad clutch cable or using a stiffer than necessary pressure plate. Excessive flexing of the firewall can also be a culprit. Let us know more about your setup......
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Re: Clutch pedal bending

Postby chevyart » Tue Jun 28, 2016 1:16 pm

many different types of heat deflectors can be made(very thin) to keep heat to a minimum around the brake parts. its done on all types of hot rods and drag cars. art
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Re: Clutch pedal bending

Postby jaloi » Tue Jun 28, 2016 1:59 pm

No cable,it's a mechanical linkage with a bellcrank.The linkage actually goes through the firewall almost behind the brake pedal so it's at leat 3 inches offset from center.Is there a cable setup for the muncies? And I made an aluminum heat sheild for the brake master cylinder,but where the hydraulic master cylinder would do through the firewall it would be with 2 inches of the back header tube thet goes out throught the fender.Doubt a platic master cylinder OR the seals would hold up under the heat.Maybe time to find an auto for it,but I do like the 4 speed! Tried to upload pics but says files are too big,sorry...
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Re: Clutch pedal bending

Postby cjbiagi » Tue Jun 28, 2016 2:23 pm

Ok, sounds like you have a completely different setup than H bodies came with. The cable will work with a Muncie but you have to have the correct bellhousing which you obviously don't have. There is a lot of design that goes into a clutch linkage with various pedal ratio's, angles and mounting of the linkage. Being a completely aftermarket or homemade setup complicates things a bit. You could beef up the pedal by welding a additional piece of steel on it but it sounds like there is some pretty heavy stress going on there, not sure if that would help or just put stress on another component in the linkage. Pics would help if you can resize them.....
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Re: Clutch pedal bending

Postby avewhtboy » Tue Jun 28, 2016 2:46 pm

You are right with those headers an external hydraulic slave cylinder won't work, you probably could use and internal style. Will have to remove the transmission to put it in but other than doing that and adding the clutch master shouldn't be too hard.

I swapped to Sandersons so I could use the external slave cylinder and I used a Wilwood Clutch master cylinder.

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Ram-Clutc ... 34216.html
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Re: Clutch pedal bending

Postby jaloi » Tue Jun 28, 2016 9:10 pm

It's more the master cylinder that would be the problem.Would be right in top of the header tube.Resized the pics so I can post them now.And I have a peice of tool steel I put in temporarily with a hose clamp to see if it would help stiffen it.I think if I weld it on it will help,but not sure it will stop it.Wasn't my build,I'm just stuck with it and trying to make it work.Just resized the pics,let's see if it works now...
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Re: Clutch pedal bending

Postby Smiley » Tue Jun 28, 2016 10:30 pm

While a heat shield will not hurt, you probably need a new master cylinder.I ran those headers for years without a heat shield and no seepage at the master.

A V8 Monza bellhousing and a cable for the year of your car works fine with a stock pedal.
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Re: Clutch pedal bending

Postby cjbiagi » Wed Jun 29, 2016 11:47 am

I can understand why it is bending, that is a pretty funky setup with that much offset.
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Re: Clutch pedal bending

Postby jaloi » Thu Jun 30, 2016 11:43 pm

Yeah,it sure is! Trying to make the best of it.The tool steel brace seems to help but it's slipping with use.If I weld it one it might just work long enough to get through the summer.
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Re: Clutch pedal bending

Postby Smiley » Fri Jul 01, 2016 8:20 pm

Check the pressure plate they may have use the B&B three finger type which requires a lot more pedal force than the diaphram type.
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Re: Clutch pedal bending

Postby jaloi » Mon Jul 04, 2016 11:16 pm

I'll have to check to see if it's a three finger or a diaphram pressure plate.I welded the brace on and so far so good.Hoping it'll get it through the rest of the summer until I can go to hydraulic or auto.
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Re: Clutch pedal bending

Postby Theamazingmrfixit » Thu May 10, 2018 7:42 pm

Hello Jaloi, In regards to your bent clutch pedal, I have a 1971 Vega Panel with a 327,Muncie, 9" and put it together back in high school 1979. It uses the Hooker super comp. Headers and I Frankenstiened a Hydraulic clutch linkage with an external slave cylinder and a Borg and Beck pressure plate, The pedal was firm and right from the start the clutch pedal bent over. I solved a problem by replacing the clutch pedal with another brake pedal. No more bending,But the pedal was very firm and I drove the car like that for the next 30 years. more recent I am converting to an internal hydraulic release. this is because the master cylinder is leaking now and I would like to free up some space down below. I have never had issues with the heat affecting the Brakes or the Clutch operation and never install any kind of heat shield or cover. I am running a Lakewood scatter shield and just welded a mounting plate to the side and has worked fine. Let me know if this helps. I can get you some parts numbers and pictures also if you want.
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Re: Clutch pedal bending

Postby cjbiagi » Thu May 10, 2018 8:34 pm

The clutch cable setup doesn't care if you have a Muncie or Saginaw trans. While the cable setup is not without its' issues it is by far the easiest to run and connect to a stock V8 H body bellhousing. Its certainly better than Frankensteining something together. A H body works fine with a 10.5" diaphram style clutch and the stock cable. Reinforcing the firewall is a good idea, I ran a brace where the cable runs through the firewall and connected it under the w/s washer bottle to the strongest part of the chassis. This brace transfers much of the stress off of the firewall and pretty much eliminates the firewall issue. Using a new cable and insulating it where it is close to the headers will help the cable survive. I also suggesting occasionally lubricating the cable to keep it working smooth, that makes a big difference. A hydraulic setup would also be nice if you can fabricate one up, but I have run the cable setup for 43 years without major issues. Sometimes its better to keep the factory setup than trying to redesign the wheel....................
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