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Took my 72 to the exhaust shop to get some mufflers put on. It had straight pipes. Very loud. This was the first time I have had a chance to get under the Vega. Boy, was I surprised to see the mount set up on the tranny (see pictures). I have enough large washers for a lifetime. About 20 on each side. I am looking to change the cross-member out right away and would like some suggestions (pictures would be great).

Looks like my T350 is about 3-4 inches farther back from stock. Would like something that would run from the stock mount location and back around to the mounting area of the tranny.

Any suggestions? Thanks

Your floor pan is in nice condition.
On V8 Vega swaps the firewall needs to be massaged with a BFH at the trans tunnel and the oil pan needs to be notched- either a V8 Monza pan,an aftermarket pan like Moroso, Milidon, Kevco or a stock pan can be modified.
If they did not clearance the firewall and use a notched pan, some people add shims to lower the crossmember and more shims in the front to raise the oil pan off the drag link.
Your crossmember is the Hooker/Transdapt swap kit part, it should be bolted to the floor with no shims.
Are the front motor mounts shimmed also ?
How much mechanical work are you equipped to do ?
An engine hoist and a MIG welder are very useful if you own or build a V8 Vega.
The oil pan can be removed with the engine in the car but it requires removing the K member.
The engine and trans mission must both be out of the car if you need to clearance the trans tunnel/firewall area.
Try taking the bolt out of the trans mount (which should have 2 bolts), then try to jack up the trans lightly until it stops and see where it is touching the body.
If you can post pics of the front motor mounts,oil pan above the steering link and back of the engine at the firewall.

Smiley wrote:Your floor pan is in nice condition.
On V8 Vega swaps the firewall needs to be massaged with a BFH at the trans tunnel and the oil pan needs to be notched- either a V8 Monza pan,an aftermarket pan like Moroso, Milidon, Kevco or a stock pan can be modified.
If they did not clearance the firewall and use a notched pan, some people add shims to lower the crossmember and more shims in the front to raise the oil pan off the drag link.
Your crossmember is the Hooker/Transdapt swap kit part, it should be bolted to the floor with no shims.
Are the front motor mounts shimmed also ?
How much mechanical work are you equipped to do ?
An engine hoist and a MIG welder are very useful if you own or build a V8 Vega.
The oil pan can be removed with the engine in the car but it requires removing the K member.
The engine and trans mission must both be out of the car if you need to clearance the trans tunnel/firewall area.
Try taking the bolt out of the trans mount (which should have 2 bolts), then try to jack up the trans lightly until it stops and see where it is touching the body.
If you can post pics of the front motor mounts,oil pan above the steering link and back of the engine at the firewall.

I'm pretty amazed at how level the engine, tranny, and back to rear end sits. I'll have to take some pics of the engine bay. It has engine mounts that bolt to the water pump and across the to subframe. Was planning on pulling the engine and tranny out sooner of later to do some detail work. This swap was done about 20 years ago, I was told. Need for heavy-duty cleanup and detailing for sure.

I would think someone has a cross-member out there that would use the original points for attachment. I have seen a couple of pictures GOOGLING, but would like to find something clean that isn't half-A$$'d.

I sold my property and shop last year and just bought another building kit to go up hopefully at the end of September. 30X40. I have most of my tools and equipment in storage right now. But will have them out ASAP. That and a 2 post lift by the end of October will get me going.

Automotive Component Engineering makes an 71 to 75 bolt in crossmember, if you are not using their motor mounts they offer one unwelded.




You can also make your own crossmember, here is the one I made for my 73.



It uses 3 bolts on each side, 1 through the factory mount location
and 2 through the thick area of the floor behind it.

Be aware, when they went to the V6/V8 they moved the right transmission frame mount back. If you try to use the 75 V8/V6 cross member it will be at an angle not straight across.

Here are a few shots of the cross member that I built for my 1972 Vega....and the 1975 Monza cross member mounts are offset....otherwise I woulda used it...

This uses the original Vega mounts...just used longer bolts with 7/16" threaded bosses on each end..

That cross member is reliant on the bolts to hold the cantilevered weight. It will allow the transmission to bounce up an down, during acceleration and on rough roads. To secure, make 2 angle brackets for the rear of the thru bolt and either weld or bolt them to or thru the floor with a large washer on top. Will make for a nice solid removable mount.