Hydraulic Clutch Conversion (71-75 manual pedal assembly req

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Re: Hydraulic Clutch Conversion (71-75 manual pedal assembly

Postby cosvega76 » Mon Dec 24, 2018 8:52 am

283vega wrote:Why the early clutch pedal assembly?


The early cars used a pulley to allow the cable a 180 degree turn to attach below the pivot. The pivot was at the same place as the brake pedal pivot. The later cars eliminated the pulley, and the cable was a direct pull above the pivot. That meant the pivot was below the level of the brake pedal pivot. This puts the pivot at the place where you would want to attach the pushrod for the master cylinder on the hydraulic setup.

Here is the early setup:

early pedals.jpg


And this is the late setup:

late pedal.jpg



Chuck
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Re: Hydraulic Clutch Conversion (71-75 manual pedal assembly

Postby Brad C » Mon Dec 24, 2018 6:16 pm

Clyde, I'm guessing a 20 year old's constant beating on the clutch system caused the failure. I was not kind to that car. I learned my lessons and treat my current collection with much better care.
Brad C. 75 Skyhawk, 70 Buick GSX, 71 Buick GSX, 87 Buick GNX, 2 86 Buick Grand Nationals and a host of other Buicks.
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Re: Hydraulic Clutch Conversion (71-75 manual pedal assembly

Postby cjbiagi » Tue Dec 25, 2018 12:58 pm

Brad, yes I am sure you do treat her much better now LOL. It's not so much beating on it but just rather doing some routine maintenance. A little of that goes a long way. Here is a write I did awhile back. You may have seen it, but here it is again.

After owning my 75 Monza for 40 years I can attest to the fact that the cables work much smoother and will last longer with some lubrication. I suggest some synthetic motor oil, or if that's not handy, regular oil. I make it a yearly practice to pull the cable out of the firewall and with a small oil can drip some oil down the hole where the cable enters the outer sheath. Gravity will pull it down and any excess will just drip a little by the bellhousing. Also, if you have headers it's a good idea to insulate the lower section of the cable or anywhere where it is close to the exhaust. There is a plastic or nylon liner inside of these cables and heat is a enemy of of it. Just some tips to help with your cable. There is also a specific way to adjust the pedal free play on these cars. It is done in a combination of cable adjustment and ballstud adjustment which is located on the top left side of the bellhousing. If you are unsure of how to do it or have any questions feel free to let me know.
Clyde.........75 Monza 2+2
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Re: Hydraulic Clutch Conversion (71-75 manual pedal assembly

Postby Mark in INdiana » Thu Dec 19, 2019 3:25 pm

I just finished using this hydraulic clutch conversion kit to build up a pedal module for my 76 Vega. I’m also changing from manual to power brakes using a 7” tandem booster from Master Power Brakes. The 1” master cylinder is for a 75 manual brake Camaro. I chose this MC because it’s reservoir size is more correct for the S10 brakes I’ll be using. I learned this set up places the MC reservoir top just touching the under hood structure. So I’ll carefully trim the stock hood rib slightly with a Dremel for clearance. I should have no problem with a fiberglass hood later on.
In addition to the early Vega pedal assembly, I also needed a Vega power brake booster/MC assembly for the mounting brackets, boot and firewall sealing tube. Also needed another brake pedal for the extra clevis pin. New brake and clutch switches were used. Note that the manual and power brake clevis pins are a different diameter as are the holes in the pedal rods. So that added a bit more work to my conversion. I found a way to keep the clutch pedal starter safety switch.
It will be a few months at least before I’m ready to for vehicle installation, but attached are pics of my module ready to go in. Hope this helps.
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Re: Hydraulic Clutch Conversion (71-75 manual pedal assembly

Postby monzaaddict » Wed Apr 01, 2020 12:46 pm

here is a one piece 90 degree fitting https://www.holley.com/products/ls_powe ... S641002ERL
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