Clearanced Drag Link

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Re: Clearanced Drag Link

Postby AusRs » Sat Apr 17, 2010 9:05 am

chevy art wrote: like i said i am betting the farm on that piece holding up

nope ,you are betting your life and the lives of others around you IF/when it ever lets go ......be interesting to get that part xrayed to see how many cracks are in it !
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Re: Clearanced Drag Link

Postby chevy art » Sat Apr 17, 2010 10:26 am

hey big block vega. good idea but not that simple. you never read my posts about all the things you run into when you start raising these motoras with extra rubbers on the hooker type mount and 2129 headers. heresa a few. headers hit k frames, headers definiktely hit lower control arms, headers hit more on steering shaft and on the panels around inner fender wells. top tranny case bolts on drivers side wont clear, hi rise single plane manifold may not clear the hood raising front of motor definitely changes final pinion angle because there is no room to bring up back of engine same amount as when you raise the front which also affects carb float level. even puts the fan a hair closer to radiator when raising only the front( some guys only have around 1/2 inch clearance to start with. believe me i looked at every nook and cranny when i added one extra 3/4 inch rubber and on 3/8 steel shim. this still gave me only a whisker of oil pan clearance, but caused all the problems i mentioned above. wihs it was easier with the cars. thanks for input, as i always listen to you guys and hope to learn something new every day art
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Re: Clearanced Drag Link

Postby norcalace » Sat Apr 17, 2010 3:24 pm

The farm is safe. :th: :th: :th:
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Re: Clearanced Drag Link

Postby starfire383 » Sun Apr 18, 2010 1:07 pm

So this is a permanent band aid for sagging motor mounts? Wow, that's a pretty serious thing to do, I'd have been tempted to just fix the mounts. I don't doubt the safeness but damn man, that's the long way around.

Good luck with your car.
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Re: Clearanced Drag Link

Postby chevy art » Sun Apr 18, 2010 1:40 pm

hey starfire. really wasnt a big deal to do. bought new center link(you could use old one if ok) and left it off at the chassis shop. $120 later i had it home. he put alot of time in it and was very careful jigging it up. i use the hooker mount. no matter what mount you use there is really only one small area to get the engine in(see my above post) so here i am with my solution. i have heard that the monza type mounts sag after a while. damm, that must be a pain to deal with. i just wanted to be ahead of the game in this area when i get the car going. sure i will find another tough area to overcome when i start driving this baby although i have pretty much followed everyone elses build over the past few years and i think i know all the little spots that cause trouble. wish me luck art PS astre gt ruined my day about a week or two ago when he just happened to mention about the flexalite plastic fan (blades point back towards firewall) hitting the harmonic balancer bolt (big ARP bolt) sure enough, another problem to work on. im on that one today art
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Re: Clearanced Drag Link

Postby 72 SS PNL » Sun Apr 18, 2010 11:59 pm

musta been fun meeting art !!

if you have seen ow easy that piece will bend , or get tweaked , they honestly not that strong in stock form , they are made to bend to keep from messing up other more expensive parts

only thing i can see that i woulda done a little different was add a gusset to the inside , other wise it looks good to me , and the tig welds look top notch
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Re: Clearanced Drag Link

Postby chevy art » Mon Apr 19, 2010 12:29 am

eric no room on the bottom for the gussett, but he did machine in the link part into the upright part a litle before welding it up. most of the guys have me dead and burried using this part. sure will have alot of explaining to do if this sucker lets loose on me. maybe i wont be around to explain. if it breaks i will blame it on president Obama. art
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Re: Clearanced Drag Link

Postby 72 SS PNL » Mon Apr 19, 2010 1:01 am

i wasnt thinking a perfect triangle , but with a curve to to it

another thought would be a pair of plates in the shape of the added parts and extended onto the center link and the out going bars

but either as is or with some added bracing , i think it will be fine , and probably hold through a few nuke wars
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Re: Clearanced Drag Link

Postby gmagilla » Mon Apr 19, 2010 10:35 am

So if the mounts sag over time why not run a motor plate up front ? I was looking at the mounts for my 73 but will do another motor plate after seeing all the problems with mounts . I did a plate on the 71 and had no issues with headers , pan or fan .
Hope it works out for you art :th: Don't want to see anyone getting hurt or their toy all banged up .
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Re: Clearanced Drag Link

Postby chevy art » Mon Apr 19, 2010 11:48 am

thanks gmagilla(man, what a name)im a firm believer of motor plates or the hooker front motor mount in these cars. if only they had built these cars about an inch or so longer in the front. (what if ?) art
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Re: Clearanced Drag Link

Postby gerbsinmd » Mon Apr 19, 2010 12:18 pm

chevy art wrote:thanks gmagilla(man, what a name)im a firm believer of motor plates or the hooker front motor mount in these cars. if only they had built these cars about an inch or so longer in the front. (what if ?) art



Yeah but that extra inch is extra metal, which is extra cost, which eats into profit.......
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Re: Clearanced Drag Link

Postby gmagilla » Mon Apr 19, 2010 11:40 pm

On my plate I cut the middle out behind the pump and used a bolt hole in the heads and the lower holes on the block by timing chain cover , then the water pump don't stick to far forward .You can see there's a lot of room in front of that pump. I found a bunch of pics I'm going to get put on a disk and there are better pics than this one .
my car no heater.jpg
. I fabed the alternator mount from the piece I cut out of the plate and hung it on the pass. side bottom of the plate . I'm going to do my 73 like this and try to fab a piece to arch over the top of the water pump to tie the two sides together. I had a flex fan before the electric fan was put on . Griffin radiator #155222 motor had 13.5 comp. and NEVER ran hot , street or strip .
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