Vegabee fuel(and wiring)

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Re: Vegabee fuel(and wiring)

Postby zeke » Sun Mar 27, 2016 9:45 am

Tightness! :shock:

Plumbing looking good. :th:
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Re: Vegabee fuel(and wiring)

Postby Monza Harry » Sun Mar 27, 2016 10:05 am

V'Bee That is a Good catch on that tapped hole/possible vac' leak! That would have put you in the Nut house searching for that if it had gone uncorrected! :th: I don't know about the FI's bank to bank vacuum sensitivity either, but there is no arguing with your reasoning,* [see above] little penalty for that Tee and two inches of hose. That is a real clean, well thought out car you have going on there! Harry
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Re: Vegabee fuel(and wiring)

Postby Vegabee » Tue Apr 12, 2016 1:20 pm

Well have been working out some things on the 56' Chevy gas tank this weekend one of them is a switch from a 30 ohm to a 90 ohm sending unit.Have a couple after market ones but the one that is short enough to clear the center in tank fuel pump sump is this one from CPP
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There is only 11 1/2 inches from the sender opening to the sump and fully retracted this sender goes in.
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first off the sender locating dimples orientated 90 degrees off so when apart I ground notches in the bracket to rotate
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this gets the float in the up and down travel position
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bending the float rod
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hooked up to see what I have,not perfect even at full travel with no float rod on.gauge goes 'almost' to empty and between full and three quarter at top level.is usable so will use it like this.prob not exactly 90 ohm at sender or gauge
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the fuel lines are oriented the opp way also from rotating the tank 180 degrees so changed the pump mounting
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trimmed a new tab opening
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points toward the front of the car now
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cut and flared lines
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Re: Vegabee fuel(and wiring)

Postby Vegabee » Sun Apr 24, 2016 11:46 pm

Wrestled the tank back in and finished some wiring on it.Have a 10 ga wire and ground running from battery with a fusible link but the wires at the pump are lighter than that so hooked up a 30 A breaker back there.loom and conduit through floor.
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removed orig blue pump wire kept the tan sender wire and hooked up with ground
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next built a vent for the tank pipe is 1/2 in so used some copper tube and wire to form it
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Wanted it above the filler cap and the only spot is in the wheel well.Looped down and attached a filter to the end of the pipe.
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Painted and wrapped some Guerilla tape to shield it some in the wheel well.This should be a good vent will see what the gas smell will be with it
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There is a filter sock on the pump and picked up another 30 micron filter on line.Larger that it looked on line but fits OK under the body so mounted there.
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Started with a roll of 3/8 steel line for supply and return fuel lines.Under the car seems like 100 times, almost done yet have to mount them.
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Re: Vegabee fuel(and wiring)

Postby Vegabee » Mon May 02, 2016 12:11 pm

Bending and bending formed the return line from the tank to the efi in one piece
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Formed a copy for the rear line from tank to the fuel filter.Wanted to get the lines in before continuing on exhaust.Put the lines way up on the floor to clear tail pipes
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Used FI hose and FI clamps and used flaring tool to swedge ends
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Re: Vegabee fuel(and wiring)

Postby Monza Harry » Mon May 02, 2016 6:59 pm

VB that looks pretty good so far. 1 Piece front to rear IMPRESSIVE, that ain't no easy feat! I use the primary step for the "double flare" to create "bubble flares" and hose barbs too, I haven't had a failure since, you will be happy with the results. If you use "Oetiker" clamps that will handle considerable pressure: https://ca.images.search.yahoo.com/sear ... syc_oracle and get them here: http://www.mcmaster.com/#ear-hose-clamps/=128olg4 Harry
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Re: Vegabee fuel(and wiring)

Postby zeke » Tue May 03, 2016 10:27 pm

Top notch all the way. :th: Love the coil tee suspension! :lol:
Chris

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Re: Vegabee fuel(and wiring)

Postby Vegabee » Wed May 04, 2016 4:55 am

We use those oetiker clamps for air lines at work.They hold well and the only way to change a hose or end is to grind them off.The connections are at the tank,fuel filter,and engine and will have to disconnect all three so went with fuel injection clamps http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=fue ... mfe=search and they work well also.
yea those inexpensive box store plumbers PVC Tees square up and hold the ride height with no worries welding around them
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Re: Vegabee fuel(and wiring)

Postby Vegabee » Mon May 23, 2016 12:58 am

Well deleted a few more wires under the hood and still have some that will have to see if they will be needed or not but went ahead and reinstalled the fuse box to under hood wire loom.Worked on the front speakers in the kick panel area.Wrapped the foam speaker boxes with tape and siliconed some foam panels above them to divert water or debris,prob wont drive in the rain anyway.
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Had to shorten the boxes also.Kind of a tall speaker so a tight fit watch the measurements closely
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Got them in with the brackets made some time ago.Also inset the speaker some to clear the mid and tweeter that protrude so the kick panel will go on with out cutting them
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installing a mini 2" tach in the clock hole.needed just a little reaming to fit
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Fits nice with room behind too and doesn't muck up the stock dash board
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cleaned the panel with a damp micro fiber towel
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turned attention to the plastic protecting bezel with some Wizards plastic polish
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Wired and mounted the auto headlight set up I configured to work with the floor dimmer button
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Photo eye installed
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Had the whole system set up and working on the table hopefully functions the same installed.must wait and see.
clean and putting parts back on.
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Re: Vegabee fuel(and wiring)

Postby Vegabee » Tue May 24, 2016 1:23 pm

Continuing on with my budget hidden stereo install if I remember correctly I got this receiver for $49 after sales and Best Buy coupons I see they make diff models now http://www.kenwood.com/usa/car/receiver/ .I wouldn't go less quality than a Kenwood or Jenson or Pioneer or something.I wanted 50W per channel and even these budget models have USB and sub woofer hook up and host of other stuff that used to be quite pricey.These stereos will usually kick the but of a factory car system.
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modded factory bracket
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Purchased a new circuit test and its a pleasure to use.Looking for the factory radio wire so plugged in to the 'radio' fuse and set the tester at 2000 ohm went through under dash wires with the other probe and here it is.The tester will read 'off scale' for an open circuit and '0' for a connected or continuous circuit.
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0 resistance on the yellow radio power wire.Other 2 are black ground which can be tested by plugging into it and touching metal chassis with the other probe for 0 resistance and gray 'lamp' or dash light.
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wired up speakers and power,grd making sure speaker wires are phased correctly such as - to - and + to + at speaker and at unit.
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more shots of speakers in their brackets before they get covered
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Re: Vegabee fuel(and wiring)

Postby Vegabee » Mon Jul 11, 2016 12:39 pm

Using a Smart Spark LS and 119003 over the manifold harness http://www.daytona-sensors.com/SmartSpark.html
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The over manifold harness has a diff map sensor plug than the remote harness so now I have 2 map sensors,should have waited on that one.Otherwise this harness fits perfectly
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hooking together with the FI tech harness http://fitechefi.com/30001.html
plugs into OEM coolant sensor
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plenty wire for coils,cam,and crank sensors
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Oxygen sensor wire up in the harness and back down to Bosch sensor
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Routing the crank sensor was a little more craft work.made a heat shield for crank sensor harness,alt and starter solenoid wires
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formed the bottom for good fit by the exhaust
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polished alum with White Diamond metal polish
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See how she fits
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extra pics in case someone needs to make one
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not too bad
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made some + & - cables and alt sense wire
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custom + to get to that stater
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Re: Vegabee fuel(and wiring)

Postby zeke » Mon Jul 11, 2016 12:51 pm

Never thought of using those type of bits to bore a hole in aluminum.
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Re: Vegabee fuel(and wiring)

Postby spencerforhire » Mon Jul 11, 2016 3:21 pm

Very nice; that "Smart Spark" unit is obviously a smaller/simpler alternative to the MSD 6LS I've installed on a few customers' cars. Did a little Google search and found out they have 10 stored spark maps that can be configured without a computer.
The "fleet"-
72 Vega HB Drag Car -383/'Glide/9"(9.35@146.19)(5.94@117.28 1/8th)
77 Vega Estate wagon- project(someday)will have TPI305/T-5, S-10 spindles/axles
76 Vega GT- 400/4spd/9" retired from active duty(rusty)
06 Silverado 2WD ex.cab daily
03 Silverado 2WD ex.cab (retired)
06 Haulin' 20ft enclosed car transporter
06 GMC Canyon Shop truck
07 Colorado project( 5.3 4L60e swap)
99 Saturn SL1- wife's car
01 Saturn SC2- son's project
07 Saturn Ion Redline project
and 4 more Saturn "parts cars"
Note- the very act of listing all of these has made me realize I have some kind of problem.....

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Re: Vegabee fuel(and wiring)

Postby Vegabee » Tue Jul 12, 2016 1:40 pm

Was looking for a spark control that I didn't have to config with computer if I didn't have to.MSD6 LS has timing pills but have read complaints that there is too much timing built into them and didn't want to hook something like that up right off the bat only to worry over it.I put on the Smart Spark and gave them a call for a little timing help and they said to set the dials on top of Smart Spark to #1 for the coil set up and 2nd dial to #7 for the LS6 combo and last 2 dials RPM limit of choice.the computer hook up looks pretty rich in adjustment also in the Smart Spark.
Spenser would any of these HEI wires work for the 'Key' hook up on the Smart Spark and FI Tech or should dedicated wire be run?Also do I need this fusible link wire from the starter the diagram doesn't show where it goes.
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big red and brown HEI wires
Also have this shifter loom to hook up
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Re: Vegabee fuel(and wiring)

Postby spencerforhire » Tue Jul 12, 2016 5:40 pm

The large red wire with the gray connector is a true ignition and will work. The fusible link should be hooked up to either the large battery terminal at the starter or even directly to the battery.
The two purple wires are the neutral safety and the pink/green pair are the reverse light switch.
I have also had issues with excessive timing advance with the MSD 6LS pills. Apparently they are a throwback product not originally designed for an LS. 10º+ too much for the efficient combustion chambers. I have to revisit a 6.0 liter with F.A.S.T. injection and try to write my own curve.
The "fleet"-
72 Vega HB Drag Car -383/'Glide/9"(9.35@146.19)(5.94@117.28 1/8th)
77 Vega Estate wagon- project(someday)will have TPI305/T-5, S-10 spindles/axles
76 Vega GT- 400/4spd/9" retired from active duty(rusty)
06 Silverado 2WD ex.cab daily
03 Silverado 2WD ex.cab (retired)
06 Haulin' 20ft enclosed car transporter
06 GMC Canyon Shop truck
07 Colorado project( 5.3 4L60e swap)
99 Saturn SL1- wife's car
01 Saturn SC2- son's project
07 Saturn Ion Redline project
and 4 more Saturn "parts cars"
Note- the very act of listing all of these has made me realize I have some kind of problem.....

Visit http://www.spencerforhire.ca
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