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This conversion is similar to what has been available for more popular cars for years. It adapts a Gm LT1/LS1 Camaro (F-Body) hydraulic clutch master to a Monza/Vega equipped with the early style manual pedal assembly. GM did this on one of their show cars in the 90's. Mark Stielow has done this on his Camaro builds. McLeod/Detroit Speed/Speedtech and others offer kits for popular car models. Grandam75 conceived the idea of adapting the hydraulics to an early H-Body pedal assembly (project journal page 4 bottom)
viewtopic.php?f=20&t=26198&start=45 ,I simply refined his design. He has been using this setup for a few years on his ls1/t56 Vega. I have messaged him a few times and he has reported no issues with clutch pedal feel and function. There is no need to move the engine wire harness firewall plug with this design.
I am thinking of offering a kit that consists of the firewall bracket and small parts required and a list of additional parts to be sourced by buyer but may offer a complete kit. No price yet, just gauging interest, but a pedal to clutch
complete hydraulics (I am offering just the pedal end of the hydraulics) is going to be $400 - $600 depending if using ls1/lt1 factory throwout bearing (slave cylinder) $80 or aftermarket $300+.
When I started researching what was required (pedal ratio, bore size), I came to the conclusion a 6 to 1 pedal ratio and a 3/4 bore master was best. Google "hydraulic clutch pedal ratio".
I bought a kit for a 55-57 Chevy from McLeod and determined that the master they use is from an lt1/t56 Camaro. It is the same 3/4" bore that is used on ls1 cars but has a shorter internal stop offering longer stroke and more volume. I imagine they choose this master over the ls1 master due to its increased volume allowing the hydraulics to be used with either an an external slave or internal hydraulic throwout bearing with a properly adjusted pedal stop and the fact that it includes the reservoir and hose. LMC127 is the LT1 clutch master which includes the reservoir and hose (LMC362 is the LS1 clutch master which does not include the reservoir or hose. The reservoir and hose can be purchased from hawk motorsports).
http://www.manualtransmissionpart.com/m ... -16_us.pdf
The pedal is 12" from pivot to center of foot pad. Placing the clutch pivot pin 2" from the pedal pivot gives 6 to 1 ratio. The bend in the pedal presented a problem. A 5/16" clevis pin welded to the pedal was what I felt to be the best solution.
I determined that I could not modify the pushrod in the manner that McLeod does to convert to thread for a rod end but found that AP ( the factory clutch master manufacturer) used a pushrod with a pivot head design that was shared with Lockhead and Tilton. Tilton offers multiple length 5/16" threaded pushrods. Tilton (part # 74-400) pushrod was the perfect length allowing me to add a (QA1 CFR-5) 5/16" thread 5/16" bore rod end .
Next, I made a mockup out of MDF (medium density fiberboard) to determine the proper position and angle (20 degrees) to mount the master that would allow the pushrod to remain inline with the clutch master bore throughout the full range of motion. The clutch master attaches to the firewall bracket with 5/16" 18 x 3/4" bolts flat washers and lock washers (It would be a good idea to use anti seize on these bolts as they are going to be in a difficult location to reach when installed).
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