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Dug my 75 monza out of storage and found out that my fuel pump and sending unit both don't work. what's the best thing to do? Are universal sending units a bad idea or can I get my original parts fixed? Please help!

-Alex

Fuel pumps are available and you can have your sending unit rebuilt

http://www.tristarrradiator.com/Product ... 0Page.html
http://www.surrauto.com/

I just got a sender back from TriStarRadiator. Here's an example of their work.

Rick

Al there are a few places to re-do your sender depending on your location as which is closest here's one near(ish) to me http://www.bobsspeedometer.com/1/120/index.asp and the page with a link to pic's http://www.bobsspeedometer.com/1/120/services.asp hope to be of help! Harry P.S. this one I found in the links page of this site or V8 Monza or Monza Homesteaders. http://www.h-body.org/ http://www.v8monza.com/ http://monza.homestead.com/monza.html

According to one person on here or on v8monza.com they say a 94 Buick park avenue sending unit/pump should function fine if you use a proper regulator OR order up sender and use a tbi fuel pump. I know of a few people who regulate the efi pumps closer to the tank then let the lower pressure dead head farther up.
I personally like replacing the fuel line, using 3/8 to feed forward and use stock line as return.

Are there other engines who have a mechanical fuelpump ?
I know L4 2500cc, are there other ?

Peter

http://www.h-body.nl

Guy's this is an old post [June, 2013] the OP signed up, checked back 5 hours later and hasn't been back! This may help others though! Harry

So any updates in this world? I'm up and running with a remote fuel pump in the engine compartment. The previous owner first put a pump up front to get the car running, and I've updated it to a better unit, but an in-tank setup would still be best.

I haven't dropped the tank yet, but everything back there is likely dead and disconnected as the fuel gauge doesn't work either.

I'm happy to spend a few dollars to have a working furl gauge and a reliable fuel pump setup - what's the go-to setup in this decade?

Tom

I ordered a Spectra FG03B that I am going to use in my car. Its from a 91ish Blazer. Some slight mods are required, but its cheap enough that its worth it.

So with that unit you'll use a high pressure fuel pump and a pressure regulator with a return line?

Normally the car uses a single fuel line, not feed and return, correct?

Rebuilt my sender unit 8 years ago and no issues yet!

Rick

I'm less worried about a refurbished or even aftermarket sender going bad than a new fuel pump. Still not sure if a replacement Vega pump in the tank is the way to go or an aftermarket pump outside the tank.

I always had an in-tank pump in my Vega. Had the stock pump for a few years, then bumped up to the Camaro HO pump, then a Fiero pump when I changed it over to fuel injection.


Chuck

TTait wrote:So with that unit you'll use a high pressure fuel pump and a pressure regulator with a return line?

Normally the car uses a single fuel line, not feed and return, correct?

I'm going to use a Stock Monza pump with it. Which is the reason for the mods - need to get the right pigtail to plug into the new sending unit, and update the pigtail to plug back into the Monza harness

I dropped the tank yesterday and pulled the sending unit. The tank is getting a boil, inner coat and outer paint over the nest few days while the pump is on order.

The previous owner has removed the oem pump, and the sender needed repairs. I replaced the strap/wire going to the sender unit, repaired and cleaned the sender and its working ok, 3-112 ohms now instead of 0-90. I haven't tested it on the car yet. If it doesn't pass muster I can move the tan wire over to a universal adjustable sender and drill a second hole for an aftermarket sender I've ordered from Amazon as a backup. If the oem one works Amazon is happy to take it back, that's the beauty of Amazon - I can drop off the part at Kohls or Whole Foods free if I don't need it.



I've ordered a Bega pump and pickup screen (CARTER P6876):



I've labeled it for reference here. I presume I'll separate the brass fittings in my first photo and find a male threaded fitting that will thread into the white outlet side of the pump. I'll connect the short jumper wire from the frame of the sending unit to negative and likely have to replace the existing strap for positive with a new wire as the insulation is split, and the strap to the level sender was causing trouble too. What I'm not clear on is the details of the final assembly.

What are the black clips A and B in my picture for? A appears to be a quick clip to go over the fuel line hose - wouldn't a metal hose clamp work better?

I'm assuming the inlet side of the pump goes through the final bracket on the pickup assembly, and then the short length of hose gets clamped onto that, and then the filter screen gets attached with just the little barbs to the outside of the other end of the hose? That seems like it would come loose as fuel sloshes around in the tank, so I'm probably missing something.

Any help or photos?

Also, there is very little information out on the web about whether or not specific wire is actually needed inside the tank to hook up the pump and sender. There are a few places where people are advocating using expensive mil-spec wire - but I'd expect to find a lot more on the subject on manufacturers websites, parts retailers websites etc. if something exotic was really required - what's the real deal?

Tom